It looks as if my 1976 Chevy Custom C-10 has a cracked head (250). The integrated head and exhaust manifold is known for cracking. My new mechanic says, “Those are the worst! Those are known for cracking.” He also says that if the head is cracked, it will take a while to find one.
I want to fix the engine, but I do not want to deal with cracking heads. Is there a way to put it back together with a head that will not crack so easily? Can I put a non-integrated head and manifold on it? What are the options as far as finding another head when mine is cracked?
Tom, I have a 54 panel truck with a 59= 235 and wish to fit it with a 700r4 transmission. and an open drive line. I see you have the transmission adapter but need info on motor mounts since the bell now supports the rear of the engine. Do I still use the front mount? use the side mount tappings? I know I need a tail shaft support. Do you sell monts for this onversion?
Hi Sir
Am from Québec Canada so sorry for my english
I got a Snowmobile Bombardier b-12 1948.in is life the old T-120 motor was change for a inline GM 250 seri 366855 with a integrate head and connect to a th-350 tranny.The two track 12 passengers vehicule is quite heavy (3500 pounds) Last year we decide the refresh the engine. A company from Montréal rebilted it.We plane the head of 60 mm , than we change the came for a marine one , got a original carburetor from a 292.After my winter Am not satisfied of the setup. When we run in 3 ft of snow we realy need low torque that we dont have with my 250. What could I do to increase the power and most important the low torque
Jean-Marc
Jean – Marc,
The low speed performance is mostly affected by engine displacement (Cubic Inches).
A 292 Cu In truck version of the 250 would be the most effective upgrade (with a 4 Barrel Carb and dual exhaust) IF you can tolerate the 1.75 Inch taller engine.
Tom
I’ve really enjoyed reading through your tech tips, I’ve learned some, but I have a question that I havent seen asked. I have a 1968 c-10 half-ton, six lug with a 250 inline six. I’ve upgraded the points n condensor to a Pertronix electronic set-up. I have a split manifold header with long tubes runing into true dual exhaust. Aside from new plugs wires etc, alternator, I’ve done nothing performance wise to the truck. I’m wanting a 5 speed tranny, to help with mileage, the orignal 3 speed saginaw is still working fine, but hard on fuel. I want to keep as much stock as I can, (six lug, etc) and keep the floor shift, (its custom, 4 feet of round stock for the shifter handle). Any suggestions?
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
Oh, did you ever know of Edelbrock making a 2 one (or two) barrel intake for a 250? I have one, but have never seen another like it.
Bruce,
I would recommend the G.M. HEI distributor, a 4 BBL carb (or 2 x 2 on your Offy 2×1 manifold)
Maybe I can help with a S-10 5 speed.
Call to discuss.
Tom
Hi Tom,
i have a 1959 Pontiac Strato-Chief with an inline 6, Casting number 3836848 GMC and would like to know if this engine is a 235? or XXX? And the engine number: WR228718
Hey Tom I have a 53 suburban with a 235 and 12v. It has the foot starter but I have to have a interlock installed so I need a starter with a push button or key. Will the starter you sell work?
I have 1953 chevy 210 with the stock 235 is the harmonic balancer pulley the same in 1955 chevy 235 . The reason i ask is that im wanting to run air conditioning in it. and i need a pulley with double grove for the 2 belts , the stock only has one . they have the balancer for 1955 chevy with double grove for 2 belts re there inner-changeable or do u know where i can purchase one.
Jerry,
The 1953 harmonic balancer is slightly smaller in diameter than the 1955 but I think the 1955 will work OK.
Who is selling the 1955 dual groove harmonic balancer?
What is the price?
Tom
I have a 1955 Chevy Pick Up 1st Series. It has a 235 straight six with a three speed+overdrive transmission. My truck runs great & my only problem is that I would like a little more speed on the hwy & MPG. My truck is almost completely stock so I don’t want to do too much but am considering changing the gears in the rear end or changing the rear end itself. I don’t plan to pull anything heavier than a 12′ Aluminum Jon boat so I don’t need the low-end gear ratio. I drive my truck like a car that I occasionally will haul a sheet of plywood. I considered changing to a 200 R4 transmission but didn’t want to change my steering wheel column to do so.
David,
I think your combination is perfect but would recommend our G.M. MINI HEI Distributor (Requires 12 volt negative ground) and maybe our Holly Weber progressive two barrel.
Tom
I have a 1961 chevy c10 with a 235 straight 6 engine, 1bl carberator (rebuilt), it hesitates and loses power after 50 mph. as i come to a stop it sometimes stalls. All new, fuel pump with filter, plugs, wires, distributor cap, points. please help me go the speed limit. Thank you for this site, your help and your time. Shawn.
Shawn,
Very hard to diagnose drivability problems without being there.
I would look strongly at the rebuilt carb as part of, if not the entire problem. Get the basics checked, fuel, air and spark again.
Tom
Tom’s top ten list of things to check when diagnosing your engine
1. Check for vacuum leaks at the gasket between the manifold and head and also around the carb base.
2. Check idle vacuum at manifold– should be 15 – 20 inch Hg. and steady.
3. Check for carb flooding or dripping at idle by looking down the carb throat with a good flashlight. (air cleaners removed).
4. Check ignition initial timing – should be approximately 10o B.T.D.C. with vacuum advance unhooked.
5. Check vacuum advance function – will the diaphragm hold vacuum?
6. If you have a distributor with points, check upper bushing wear by pushing the rotor “north to south” and then “east to west”. If you have an HEI, check rotor-to-cap terminal alignment at cylinder #1 firing.
7. Check individual cylinder power at idle by pulling each spark plug wire and note RPM loss for each cylinder.
8. Check cranking compression (with throttle open).
9. Are all the rocker arms going up and down? Check lash.
10. Check for internal crack or hole in intake manifold heat chamber.
I have a 1980 Chevy C10 with 250 with integrated head. One of the air valves is cross-threaded, and all are functionally questionable. Is it possible to plug these holes? Will that require removing the catalytic converter? Do you sell anything to plug the air valve holes in the exhaust manifold ports – or do you know what thread they are? Thank you very much!
I just bought a 1950 GMC 5 Window pickup. It has a 228 in it with 3 on the tree. I want to make it an old school hot rod. Any tips on what I should do. I would like to keep original motor and running gear. Not wanting a rat rod but a cool truck with some “spunk”.
Thanks Tom -
Really appreciate your time. On the hunt for a 270 right now. Seem to be pretty scarce. Will post updates once I get a motor. Thinking of manifold to mount 4 bbl 350 cfm carb and build the inline.
Located a military 270 for good price. Will this fit? I have read the 302 will not fit without major modifications. I am looking for “drop in” to maintain stock appearance as much as possible.
Thanks
i have a 1965 chevy c10 pickup with a 230 engine in it, id like to replace the engine with a 292. what pieces will interchange and what pieces will be needed to make conversion? also what electronic ignition system do you recommend and do you have it?
Terry,
You will need a passenger side motor and frame bracket in addition to a complete accessory drive and a 292 flywheel. I recommend the GM HEI distributor.
By Waldorf Ole School, September 9, 2011 @ 1:53 pm
I’ve put a 181(stovebolt version of 153)in a trike and wanting to maintain ole school look.Could use a adapting spacer to fill the gap in the better breathing head ports.Anybody make this or should I should start w/flatbar.So many people speed up as you go around them, I must piddle like them?DON’T think so.Gained close to 50HP!!!from later version.I’m a boilermaker by trade and can make many things w/o a machine shop.If I must fab what material would you use?
I recently purchased a 47 Chevy Fleetline (Areosedan) I just received the title and it states it is a 48, do you know what the difference is so I could maybe know what it is I have? Thank you.
Tom I have a stock 36 chevy pickup. It runs great, but 40 to 45 mph is too slow. Will an s10 trans get me high way speed with the existing rear end. Or, can you tell me the easiest way to get highway speeds out of her?? Its a 216 sw/ a 4 speed. Thanks Rand
just looked up the numbers. the engine that i was told to be a 235 is in fact a ’62 261. as far as motor mounts, do they line up or should i find another engine?
Hey Tom,
i have a 60′s 235. we are swapping it out for a 1949 216. I’m low on funds and i would like to swap the motor before it gets cold. I have been reading a lot on getting the valve seats hardened. yes or no? also does the HEI increase performance or just reliability of starting? Eventually I plan on adding 2 2 barrels and leave the exhaust header stock. exhaust headers are for sound anyways right?
I have a 1968 Chevy K-20 Suburban 3/4 with a 292 straight. I am having the engine rebuilt and since I am trying to upgrade her a bit I need help finding two things for her. Do you sell a valve cover without the hole for the oilbath air breather, I also need the HEI upgrade and I am looking for a new style airbreather that will fit my 1bbl carb? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the feedback, since I asked my question it has been determined that my 292 is almost beyond repair, so I now looking for a 350 crate motor for my Suburban.
I was wondering what the fastest RPM you could get with a stock oiling system and stock block with stock or custom pistons with a highly modified head on a 72 250CI?
What would be the fastest you could get with a Hi flow oil pump?
I’m running a freshly built 292 with Offenhauser intake and a 390cfm Holley setup in a 49 Chevy panel truck. I’ve got a camaro t5 with 2.76 first and a 4.10 12 bolt rear end. The 292 is bored .60 over and has a 230 head, and an “RV” cam that was included in my master rebuild kit. I feel like i’ve dialed in the timing and tuned the carb but the engine feels weak compared to what i’ve read about these motors, especially on hills. I had headers installed but was having lots of problems with leaks and switched over to the original exhaust manifold for the time being. My question is despite comments I’ve read on the 390 on this site many people have advised me on going bigger on the carb. With my over bore is that adviseable in your opinion? Also do you think there’s any issues in my gearing combinations? Also wonder what you advise for an approximate jetting on the 390 for a setup like this.
Hey I’m new to this website. I have a question, I have a 52 Chevy Styleline Delux with a 216 completely stock motor. Can this motor accept performance parts to increase performance. If so, what’s a good setup trying to remain stock. This is a daily driver, not a show car. Thanks in advance.
Hey tom, I have a 1950 chevy truck with a 1954 235 motor in it. I see to use a 83-87 2.8 s-10 5 speed but was wondering about a rearend and driveshaft. I am planning on going with the mustang II front end and would like to go 5 lug on the rearend. What would be the simplest route to go. Thanks
I recently bought a 1958 chevy truck with a fresh rebuilt 1958 235( it was done by a machine shop). I would like to change the intake, exhaust and possibly cam. It will be a daily driver with an automatic 700r4. So what intake(double or tripple) who’s exhaust and cam? I will be ordering from you in the very near future. Thanks Tom.
I am in the planning stages of a 1936 Chevy p/u build. I want it to be a daily driver and therefore started looking into an inline six. My question is this, with a blank canvas like I have what core components would you go with? MPG is a big factor, but I would also like some performance. Motor, carbs, trans, etc. Thank you in advance.
Tom I have your Carbs and HEI in my 49 Plymouth. The coil (round blue top) is mounted to the top of the inner fender UNDER an O’Brien Truckers Aluminum Cover. I’m now loving in FL and twice, on long runs over 25 miles or more at highway speeds, the vehicles has shut off and failed to restart. Both times were extremely warm days and the temp was reading 195 with the ac on. It is not a fuel issue, there was no spark. An hour later the car starts and runs fine. Would love your thoughts around the coil? I’ve replaced it and module several months ago after the first instance. Thanks, Howard
Could you please elaborate on model/details of GM square coil? I have your mini hei and coil and was getting ready to mount in obrien truckers aluminum cover. Will this cause it to overheat? I’m in Houston, TX (very hot) but I don’t have A/C.
Scott,
The G.M. “Square” Coil is typical of all G.M. HEI usage and is our recommended standard coil for all of our HEI distributors.
It provides more than adequate voltage and spark duration for all except nitro methane racing applications.
Aftermarket high Output” coils are NOT recommended.
Tom
I have a 1951 Chevy 3100 pick up with the original 4 speed (with granny gear), the original rear end (which I upgraded to a 3:55 gear) and a 235 engine built in 1956. I plan to rebuild the engine but am not happy with the transmission. What do you recommend for a replacement standard transmission? Can it be used with the original closed driveline? or, is there a way to convert the rear end to an open drive line?
You will need an “open” (non torque tube) rear axle to be able to use a good transmission. I would recommend an S-10 5 speed overdrive (from an ’83-’87 S-10 truck with 2.8 L V6 engine). This would have a 27 % overdrive. It would be perfect for the highway cruising up to 70 MPH and still not be weak in the lower gears.
Hey Keith,
I’ve got a similar set-up and am looking to go with the better tranny/rear-end combo. Mine’s a ’53 with a 235 from a ’55 and the granny 4 speed. I’ve located a S-10 tranny ($200) but am not sure which rearend/ drive line to look for. Don’t know about the existing rearend, but suspect it’s stock. Was the 3:55 lower or higher than stock? What did you end up with? I can’t figure out how to post questions to Tom at this site.
Hope to hear from you,
Thanks, james CA
Hello Tom, I am about to rebuild my 54 235 Blueflame 6. It is fitted to my 46 GMC 3/4 tonne. I am using an offenhauser tripple intake, Williams headers and electronic ignition conversion (all purchased from you), I am fitting three stromberg single down draught carbs with a 7/32″ throat. I am also using a remote oil filter. I have an exceptional machine shop and they are just waiting for directions. I am building my truck for regular use and will often use it to tow loads and sometimes in the hills. I need to build for good low to mid range torque, I will be using 98 octane unleaded.
- What cam shaft should I use?
- Do I need to balance the engine?
- Is there a better harmonic balancer to use?
- Do you think the carb throat diameter is too large?
- What compression ratio do you recommend?
- What ignition timing would you recommend?
Thanks Tom, your advice would be greatly appreciated.
Jayde
Tom, I am I have a problem I hope you could help me with. I have a 1974 chevy pick-up with a 250 inline six and a three speed manual. My upgrades to date are 1.94 stainless intake and 1.60 stainless exhaust valves, a lump port kit and Clifford intake (that does not leak) with a holley 390, I am thinking about a 500 edelbrock . My problem is that my Hooker headers leak at #2,3 cylinders, I have re welded the flange and milled it flat but it still leaks. Would your cast Iron headers help with this problem.
dear readers,
i own a
67s camaro with a 230cui engine
390cfm 4bbl holley carb
offy intake
stock exhaust
stock engine cam
stock head
and have the typical holley bog/hesitation during hard acceleration. The car starts very good in summer or winter and has a fine iddle speed. The bog or hesitation occurs only under normal to hard acceleration. The car takes of normally and bogs shortly in every gear at about 1500 to 2000rpm and continues to accelerate smoothly until i have to change up gear.
Recently i bought the optional holley tuning parts (springs, discharge nozzles, cams, …)and finally exchanged the original .25 with a .45 discharge nozzle and put the strongest spring for the secondaries in.
With this change i feel an improvement but still doesn t get completely rid of the old problem/bog.
Can anyone tell me what to do, even after reading reports on other websites i dont have a clou what to do. Some say change the spring on the secondaries others told me to change up or down the discharge nozzle. I know it is very difficult for you to give me an advice but maybe someone have the same engine/carb combination and could give me his specifications on springs nozzles cams…. to try it out…
thank you
Try a 1″ spacer under the carb, (open pleninum) not 4 seperate holes. Also try a larger air fiter, more air not more fuel. I found out the hard way that the temperature of the water, coolant for the manifold heater is cooler after it passes though the heater core first. Try running the heater hose that exits the upper part of the block, then to the manifold heater then to the heater core,and then back to the engine. Hope that helps..Good Luck!!..Ron from not so sunny NorCal.
Ron,
Proper routing of engine coolant to keep the inlet manifold warm: The supply should be from the thermostat housing, (below the thermostat) through the manifold and return to the water pump.
It should NOT go through the heater unless the heater flows all the time (no coolant shut off valve)
A spacer under the Carb should NOT have any significant effect; but it is frequently quoted folklore!
Tom
I have a 1965 Chevy with a 230. The engine is stock with the exception of the distributor and electric fuel pump. The carb is fairly new and recently rebuilt. There is hesitation on acceleration only during the initial push of the pedal; this is accompanied by a very loud sound of air being sucked in. I’m using a 5” open element air cleaner. (this was an issue before carb rebuild and fuel pump) Thanks
Chuck,
The sound is normal. Your 5″ open element air cleaner is the cause. That is why the factory air cleaner is designed with larger volume and a snorkle.
Tom
EGGE< is the best sourse for uncommon parts, also try Kanter, I have had good luck getting offthewall parts from those guys,-{Studebaker-flat 6-,They even sent me cam bearings.} Good Luck!! Inliners4ever. Ron.
I have a 65 c10 with a 250 block and the original 230 head milled and steel valve seats. With a eldelbrock 500 and header offy intake combo what HP do you think I should pull? Also do recommend a cam. The cylinders ate all from 120-125psi on the compression test I just did so its strong. Thanks
Tom,
Will the intake ( Qjet)and factory dual ex. manifolds from a OHC pontiac six actually bolt to a 250 or 292 ? I am looking at one and it looks very close . If not the intake- could the Ex manifold be used with the stock or offy intake???
thanks Mitch
I have a 75 c-10 with a 350 and 700r4 and 3.40 rear end, I have considered swapping out the 350 for a 292, I would like to freshen the 292 up and maybe do a few modifications, the goal is to create an engine that would be a reliable daily driver with good torque that would likely operate in the idle-2200 range with the occasional revving punishment, and provide better mileage than the 350, any idea what kind of mileage I could expect? Mileage would be a key component to figuring out if this dream would be worth while. Thanks
This would involve motor mounts, flex plate.
Your 292 would need to be complete in every way.
Net gain might be 2 MPG if your carburetion and ignition are perfect.
Tom
i have a ’61 235 that i want to use in my ’48 chevy coupe, i want a 2 carb intake and a split header, i also want to run a 5 speed from a S-10. everyone tells me their intakes wont fit my motor, either to early or to late! ,and putting a 5speed behind it seems like a strange idea?!?! please help me before i get frustrated and end up with a small block!
Todd,
Your upgrades for your ’61 235 are a good idea and we can supply all the parts.
The S-10 5 speed is a particularly good idea and I can help with that too.
Call to discuss and order.
Tom
Hello,
I have a chevy 250 with an integral cylinder head, is it possible to put headers on it? Or would i have to exchange the integral cylinder head for a non integral and change the manifold?
Thank You
I have a 250 CI in a 72 Nova and I was wondering what the most horsepower/torque I can get with your intake and headers and still be able to drive it down the street but take it road racing on the weekends at the tracks. Also, what should I look for in the numbers when choosing a cam for a milled stock head (I’m not sure how much was milled but it seemed like a lot-still runs well)? I calculated the numbers and found out I should either get a 350 CFM 2-barrel or a 390 CFM 4-barrel, which would you choose based on the info provided? I read your article on carbs n cams.
Justin,
Maximum practical horsepower for a “street” 250 would be about 260 H.P. and 250 Ft Lbs torque, assuming you install a four barrel, dual exhaust, performance camshaft and a lump port head. The four barrel is your best choice (390 Holly or 500 Edlebrock)
Tom
I have a 69 250 chev with Clifford (did not know about you and offy then), heated intake, Holley 390 (carb rejetted per clifford spec including boosters) and headers, summit HEI with coil built in. Stock Head was milled .030. I would like to order your street cam but have a persistent problem I must fix before investing any more dollars. At idle it runs mostly smooth but rev it up and on decel you hear “puffing” in each exhaust sounding like a couple of exhaust valves not seating mirrored by a very bouncy vaccum Guage until it levels off relatively stable at 15 inches. It runs rough on accel as well. Timing set at 4 degrees but does not help moving it. I replaced the valve springs (stock) at someones suggestion and recently a new intake/exhaust gasket to no avail. Compression guage shows 160lbs across the board cranking!? (Changed plugs) Pull sprk plug wires one at a timefor balance test and #2 and 3 seem to have little power drop compared to the rest (confusing as they dont share intake port). This set up ran ok for about 2000 miles and got progressively worse Maybe lack of leaded fuel over the many years of running (90,000 miles)? Any help is greatly appreciated. I’m suspecting valves not seating but the compression doesn’t make sense. I checked to see if you offer cylinder heads but looks like not.
Harry,
Valve lash (HOT) should be .006″ Inlet and .018″ Exhaust.
Beware of rocker arm pallet “grooving” which will give false lash indications.
If you have rocker arm grooving, you will need to re-surface the rocker arms.
Tom
Tom, got Headers and intake for my 292 GM. Question, I’m mating this with a, ok stay with me know, a New Process 883 Mopar that was actually used by GM in the early 80′s. All kidding aside because I’m sure you know a heck of a lot more about that then I. Help me if you can to match up a clutch for me…. What else would you need to know? Ed
heloo im fixing my 1951 chevy truck i want to make it automatic what do i need and what kind of transmission would fit also the stirring what could i use to make it look almost original
Dear Sir, I purchase -51 1/2 ton pickup from USA to Finland and now I would like to swap the orginal tranny to 200 4r witch I`ve allredy have. The only thing that I have not worked out is how to build a open driveline to the orginal rear axle. So the question is what parts to use or do I have to replace the whole rear axle?
I have an old Offy 4 BBL intake manifold #5416 . There is a flat 3 l/2″ sq.mounting area on the bottom with a 3/8-16 th. hole. Do you sell a water heating plate for this manifold? It”s used on a 292.
I have a 1971 chevy pick up with a 292, it has headers and the heads have been shaved, the rest of the engine is stock, I have a limited budget(less than 1600); what can I do to increase horsepower??
I have a ’59 235 in my ’53 belair. I just found out it has solid lifters. The block has oiling passageways drilled through the lifter areas. My understanding is that ’58-’62 were drilled in this manner to accept either solid or hydraulic, and both were used. My question: Can I install hydraulic lifters if the cam is ground for solid? My understanding is that hydraulic lifters will work on either cam, but solid lifters will not work with a hydraulic cam. Can you clarify or confirm my info? Thanks!
Yes, the ’58-’62 235 engines were built with both solid and hydraulic lifters but the cams have different designs (opening and closing ramps) for the two lifters. If you install hydraulic lifters (expensive!) your engine will not idle or run well at low speed.
Your site is a great help and is greatly appreciated. I just rebuilt a Chevy 292 in a 1980 C20. The only quandry I have is locating a thermostat housing (The half that bolts to the block). They do not seem to be made anymore. The one on my engine is aluminum and rather pitted. Do you know of anyone that still makes or sells them?
By Sam Williams, January 10, 2012 @ 7:06 pm
It looks as if my 1976 Chevy Custom C-10 has a cracked head (250). The integrated head and exhaust manifold is known for cracking. My new mechanic says, “Those are the worst! Those are known for cracking.” He also says that if the head is cracked, it will take a while to find one.
I want to fix the engine, but I do not want to deal with cracking heads. Is there a way to put it back together with a head that will not crack so easily? Can I put a non-integrated head and manifold on it? What are the options as far as finding another head when mine is cracked?
By Tom, January 18, 2012 @ 1:02 pm
Sam,
Your mechanic is correct about both statements.
Tom
By Art, December 28, 2011 @ 7:40 pm
Tom, I have a 54 panel truck with a 59= 235 and wish to fit it with a 700r4 transmission. and an open drive line. I see you have the transmission adapter but need info on motor mounts since the bell now supports the rear of the engine. Do I still use the front mount? use the side mount tappings? I know I need a tail shaft support. Do you sell monts for this onversion?
By Tom, December 30, 2011 @ 2:54 pm
Art,
You will need to fabricate mounts off of the transmission attaching bolts.
No tail housing support will be required.
Tom
By snowman, November 22, 2011 @ 9:16 pm
Hi Sir
Am from Québec Canada so sorry for my english
I got a Snowmobile Bombardier b-12 1948.in is life the old T-120 motor was change for a inline GM 250 seri 366855 with a integrate head and connect to a th-350 tranny.The two track 12 passengers vehicule is quite heavy (3500 pounds) Last year we decide the refresh the engine. A company from Montréal rebilted it.We plane the head of 60 mm , than we change the came for a marine one , got a original carburetor from a 292.After my winter Am not satisfied of the setup. When we run in 3 ft of snow we realy need low torque that we dont have with my 250. What could I do to increase the power and most important the low torque
Jean-Marc
By Tom, November 28, 2011 @ 3:27 pm
Jean – Marc,
The low speed performance is mostly affected by engine displacement (Cubic Inches).
A 292 Cu In truck version of the 250 would be the most effective upgrade (with a 4 Barrel Carb and dual exhaust) IF you can tolerate the 1.75 Inch taller engine.
Tom
By John Long, November 16, 2011 @ 4:32 pm
ever hear of someone putting a t5 behind a 250? this will go in a 1963 chevy biscayne.
By Tom, November 17, 2011 @ 2:07 pm
John,
Yes, most T-5 Chevy transmissions have the same bolt pattern as your 1963 250.
Tom
By ShepFL, November 6, 2011 @ 11:18 pm
Your knowledge is OUTSTANDING. Love this site.
By Tom, November 7, 2011 @ 2:33 pm
Thnk you!
Tom
By Bruce Foster, November 2, 2011 @ 11:57 am
Sir,
I’ve really enjoyed reading through your tech tips, I’ve learned some, but I have a question that I havent seen asked. I have a 1968 c-10 half-ton, six lug with a 250 inline six. I’ve upgraded the points n condensor to a Pertronix electronic set-up. I have a split manifold header with long tubes runing into true dual exhaust. Aside from new plugs wires etc, alternator, I’ve done nothing performance wise to the truck. I’m wanting a 5 speed tranny, to help with mileage, the orignal 3 speed saginaw is still working fine, but hard on fuel. I want to keep as much stock as I can, (six lug, etc) and keep the floor shift, (its custom, 4 feet of round stock for the shifter handle). Any suggestions?
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
Oh, did you ever know of Edelbrock making a 2 one (or two) barrel intake for a 250? I have one, but have never seen another like it.
Thanks in advance!
By Tom, November 3, 2011 @ 2:49 pm
Bruce,
I would recommend the G.M. HEI distributor, a 4 BBL carb (or 2 x 2 on your Offy 2×1 manifold)
Maybe I can help with a S-10 5 speed.
Call to discuss.
Tom
By David, October 31, 2011 @ 11:12 am
Hi Tom,
i have a 1959 Pontiac Strato-Chief with an inline 6, Casting number 3836848 GMC and would like to know if this engine is a 235? or XXX? And the engine number: WR228718
thanks
DAvid
By Tom, November 1, 2011 @ 2:11 pm
David,
The 3836848 is a cylinder head casting number (for a 235 or 261)
What is the block casting number?
Tom
By Drew vigil, October 28, 2011 @ 10:31 pm
Hey Tom I have a 53 suburban with a 235 and 12v. It has the foot starter but I have to have a interlock installed so I need a starter with a push button or key. Will the starter you sell work?
By Tom, October 31, 2011 @ 8:28 am
I can supply a 302. Call (586-739-9601) for details.
By Tom, October 31, 2011 @ 8:39 am
Drew,
No, our starter will not work, but I may be able to help. How many teeth on your flywheel? (139 or 168?)
Tom
By Jerry Torres, October 28, 2011 @ 9:54 am
Tom,
I have 1953 chevy 210 with the stock 235 is the harmonic balancer pulley the same in 1955 chevy 235 . The reason i ask is that im wanting to run air conditioning in it. and i need a pulley with double grove for the 2 belts , the stock only has one . they have the balancer for 1955 chevy with double grove for 2 belts re there inner-changeable or do u know where i can purchase one.
By Tom, October 28, 2011 @ 2:07 pm
Jerry,
The 1953 harmonic balancer is slightly smaller in diameter than the 1955 but I think the 1955 will work OK.
Who is selling the 1955 dual groove harmonic balancer?
What is the price?
Tom
By David, October 26, 2011 @ 10:56 pm
Tom,
I have a 1955 Chevy Pick Up 1st Series. It has a 235 straight six with a three speed+overdrive transmission. My truck runs great & my only problem is that I would like a little more speed on the hwy & MPG. My truck is almost completely stock so I don’t want to do too much but am considering changing the gears in the rear end or changing the rear end itself. I don’t plan to pull anything heavier than a 12′ Aluminum Jon boat so I don’t need the low-end gear ratio. I drive my truck like a car that I occasionally will haul a sheet of plywood. I considered changing to a 200 R4 transmission but didn’t want to change my steering wheel column to do so.
By Tom, October 27, 2011 @ 4:21 pm
David,
I think your combination is perfect but would recommend our G.M. MINI HEI Distributor (Requires 12 volt negative ground) and maybe our Holly Weber progressive two barrel.
Tom
By Shawn, October 15, 2011 @ 8:22 pm
Tom,
I have a 1961 chevy c10 with a 235 straight 6 engine, 1bl carberator (rebuilt), it hesitates and loses power after 50 mph. as i come to a stop it sometimes stalls. All new, fuel pump with filter, plugs, wires, distributor cap, points. please help me go the speed limit. Thank you for this site, your help and your time. Shawn.
By Tom, October 18, 2011 @ 4:41 pm
Shawn,
Very hard to diagnose drivability problems without being there.
I would look strongly at the rebuilt carb as part of, if not the entire problem. Get the basics checked, fuel, air and spark again.
Tom
By Tom, November 6, 2011 @ 1:06 pm
Tom’s top ten list of things to check when diagnosing your engine
1. Check for vacuum leaks at the gasket between the manifold and head and also around the carb base.
2. Check idle vacuum at manifold– should be 15 – 20 inch Hg. and steady.
3. Check for carb flooding or dripping at idle by looking down the carb throat with a good flashlight. (air cleaners removed).
4. Check ignition initial timing – should be approximately 10o B.T.D.C. with vacuum advance unhooked.
5. Check vacuum advance function – will the diaphragm hold vacuum?
6. If you have a distributor with points, check upper bushing wear by pushing the rotor “north to south” and then “east to west”. If you have an HEI, check rotor-to-cap terminal alignment at cylinder #1 firing.
7. Check individual cylinder power at idle by pulling each spark plug wire and note RPM loss for each cylinder.
8. Check cranking compression (with throttle open).
9. Are all the rocker arms going up and down? Check lash.
10. Check for internal crack or hole in intake manifold heat chamber.
By Pat Sullivan, October 14, 2011 @ 10:11 pm
I have a 1980 Chevy C10 with 250 with integrated head. One of the air valves is cross-threaded, and all are functionally questionable. Is it possible to plug these holes? Will that require removing the catalytic converter? Do you sell anything to plug the air valve holes in the exhaust manifold ports – or do you know what thread they are? Thank you very much!
By Tom, October 28, 2011 @ 3:13 pm
Pat,
You can plug them but I don’t know the thread size.
Tom
By ShepFL, October 12, 2011 @ 10:28 pm
I just bought a 1950 GMC 5 Window pickup. It has a 228 in it with 3 on the tree. I want to make it an old school hot rod. Any tips on what I should do. I would like to keep original motor and running gear. Not wanting a rat rod but a cool truck with some “spunk”.
Thanks
By Tom, October 28, 2011 @ 3:29 pm
Install a 270 or a 302 GMC and a modern driveline.
Tom
By ShepFL, October 28, 2011 @ 5:21 pm
Thanks Tom -
Really appreciate your time. On the hunt for a 270 right now. Seem to be pretty scarce. Will post updates once I get a motor. Thinking of manifold to mount 4 bbl 350 cfm carb and build the inline.
By ShepFL, November 6, 2011 @ 11:13 pm
Located a military 270 for good price. Will this fit? I have read the 302 will not fit without major modifications. I am looking for “drop in” to maintain stock appearance as much as possible.
Thanks
By Tom, November 8, 2011 @ 2:39 pm
The 302 is the same dimensions as the 270 EXACTLY! BUT…. the 302 has a 6 bolt flywheel.
Your 228 and the early 270 had a 4 bolt flywheel.
Tom
By Terry, September 27, 2011 @ 8:34 am
i have a 1965 chevy c10 pickup with a 230 engine in it, id like to replace the engine with a 292. what pieces will interchange and what pieces will be needed to make conversion? also what electronic ignition system do you recommend and do you have it?
By Tom, October 10, 2011 @ 1:34 pm
Terry,
You will need a passenger side motor and frame bracket in addition to a complete accessory drive and a 292 flywheel. I recommend the GM HEI distributor.
By Waldorf Ole School, September 9, 2011 @ 1:53 pm
I’ve put a 181(stovebolt version of 153)in a trike and wanting to maintain ole school look.Could use a adapting spacer to fill the gap in the better breathing head ports.Anybody make this or should I should start w/flatbar.So many people speed up as you go around them, I must piddle like them?DON’T think so.Gained close to 50HP!!!from later version.I’m a boilermaker by trade and can make many things w/o a machine shop.If I must fab what material would you use?
By Joe Rodriguez, September 1, 2011 @ 6:09 pm
I recently purchased a 47 Chevy Fleetline (Areosedan) I just received the title and it states it is a 48, do you know what the difference is so I could maybe know what it is I have? Thank you.
By Rand Mecham, August 31, 2011 @ 10:51 pm
Tom I have a stock 36 chevy pickup. It runs great, but 40 to 45 mph is too slow. Will an s10 trans get me high way speed with the existing rear end. Or, can you tell me the easiest way to get highway speeds out of her?? Its a 216 sw/ a 4 speed. Thanks Rand
By Todd, August 30, 2011 @ 12:14 pm
just looked up the numbers. the engine that i was told to be a 235 is in fact a ’62 261. as far as motor mounts, do they line up or should i find another engine?
By Tom, September 5, 2011 @ 3:00 pm
Todd,
A 1962 261 has identical motor mounts as a 1958-1962 235 (’55-’57) has no sde mounts; ’54 has different “upside down” mounts.
Tom
By Todd, August 30, 2011 @ 12:00 pm
Hey Tom,
i have a 60′s 235. we are swapping it out for a 1949 216. I’m low on funds and i would like to swap the motor before it gets cold. I have been reading a lot on getting the valve seats hardened. yes or no? also does the HEI increase performance or just reliability of starting? Eventually I plan on adding 2 2 barrels and leave the exhaust header stock. exhaust headers are for sound anyways right?
By Tom, September 5, 2011 @ 2:56 pm
Todd,
If you are planning on highway driving, I would recommend hardened exhaust valve seat inserts.
Our Mini HEI is almost always a perfromance improvement due to the 50 + year old age of the original point type distributor.
Tom
By cameron b, August 30, 2011 @ 1:51 am
where do the battery’s wires go on a 1965 chevy c10
By Tom, September 12, 2011 @ 2:04 pm
Look in your shop manual.
By Tat, August 25, 2011 @ 7:30 pm
Hey Tom,
I have a 1968 Chevy K-20 Suburban 3/4 with a 292 straight. I am having the engine rebuilt and since I am trying to upgrade her a bit I need help finding two things for her. Do you sell a valve cover without the hole for the oilbath air breather, I also need the HEI upgrade and I am looking for a new style airbreather that will fit my 1bbl carb? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Tat
By Tom, August 26, 2011 @ 2:37 pm
Tat,
Yes, we can supply a GM HEI for your 292 and probably an air cleaner.
Call to discuss and order.
Tom
By Tat, September 12, 2011 @ 9:25 pm
Thanks for the feedback, since I asked my question it has been determined that my 292 is almost beyond repair, so I now looking for a 350 crate motor for my Suburban.
Thanks again,
Tat
By Justin, August 11, 2011 @ 3:59 pm
I was wondering what the fastest RPM you could get with a stock oiling system and stock block with stock or custom pistons with a highly modified head on a 72 250CI?
What would be the fastest you could get with a Hi flow oil pump?
By Justin, August 11, 2011 @ 5:11 pm
PS also having a highly modified valve train(gears, cam, push rods, valve springs, and lighter valves)
By Gabriel, August 2, 2011 @ 3:36 pm
Hi Tom,
I’m running a freshly built 292 with Offenhauser intake and a 390cfm Holley setup in a 49 Chevy panel truck. I’ve got a camaro t5 with 2.76 first and a 4.10 12 bolt rear end. The 292 is bored .60 over and has a 230 head, and an “RV” cam that was included in my master rebuild kit. I feel like i’ve dialed in the timing and tuned the carb but the engine feels weak compared to what i’ve read about these motors, especially on hills. I had headers installed but was having lots of problems with leaks and switched over to the original exhaust manifold for the time being. My question is despite comments I’ve read on the 390 on this site many people have advised me on going bigger on the carb. With my over bore is that adviseable in your opinion? Also do you think there’s any issues in my gearing combinations? Also wonder what you advise for an approximate jetting on the 390 for a setup like this.
Thanks in advance,
Gabe
By Tom, August 8, 2011 @ 2:19 pm
Gabe,
What Camaro T-5 do you actually have?
There was a 2.95, 3.50 and a 3.76 1st gear ratio but no 2.76 ratio.
Is your intake manifold heated?
Tom
By Justin, July 27, 2011 @ 3:56 pm
Hey I’m new to this website. I have a question, I have a 52 Chevy Styleline Delux with a 216 completely stock motor. Can this motor accept performance parts to increase performance. If so, what’s a good setup trying to remain stock. This is a daily driver, not a show car. Thanks in advance.
By Tom, August 3, 2011 @ 7:28 am
Justin,
I would keep it pretty much stock due to the inferior “dip & splash’ oiling system.
Tom
By Chris, July 18, 2011 @ 4:03 pm
Hey tom, I have a 1950 chevy truck with a 1954 235 motor in it. I see to use a 83-87 2.8 s-10 5 speed but was wondering about a rearend and driveshaft. I am planning on going with the mustang II front end and would like to go 5 lug on the rearend. What would be the simplest route to go. Thanks
By Tom, July 19, 2011 @ 2:13 pm
Chris,
For a five lug Chevy bolt pattern, I would use a 1983 – 1993 S-10 4 wheel drive with a 3.42 or 3.73 ratio.
Drive shaft from an Astro Van.
Tom
By David in Texas, June 25, 2011 @ 8:23 am
I recently bought a 1958 chevy truck with a fresh rebuilt 1958 235( it was done by a machine shop). I would like to change the intake, exhaust and possibly cam. It will be a daily driver with an automatic 700r4. So what intake(double or tripple) who’s exhaust and cam? I will be ordering from you in the very near future. Thanks Tom.
By Tom, June 27, 2011 @ 1:41 pm
David,
I would recommend: Offy 2 x 1 inlet manifold, Carter Weber carburetors, Williams cast iron headers and possibly our “Bulldog” camshaft.
Tom
By David, June 27, 2011 @ 10:45 pm
Hey tom can you tell me more about this Bulldog cam, it was definitely on my lilst. I searched it on your site and couldn’t find it.
By Tom, June 28, 2011 @ 2:18 pm
David,
The “Bulldog” cam is a street mechanical grind with 254 degree inlet duration and 264 degree exhaust duration.
Tom
By Matt, June 10, 2011 @ 1:32 am
I am in the planning stages of a 1936 Chevy p/u build. I want it to be a daily driver and therefore started looking into an inline six. My question is this, with a blank canvas like I have what core components would you go with? MPG is a big factor, but I would also like some performance. Motor, carbs, trans, etc. Thank you in advance.
By Tom, June 25, 2011 @ 12:15 am
# 1 overdrive trans. #2 dual exhaust #3 dual carbs
By Howard, June 4, 2011 @ 11:28 am
Tom I have your Carbs and HEI in my 49 Plymouth. The coil (round blue top) is mounted to the top of the inner fender UNDER an O’Brien Truckers Aluminum Cover. I’m now loving in FL and twice, on long runs over 25 miles or more at highway speeds, the vehicles has shut off and failed to restart. Both times were extremely warm days and the temp was reading 195 with the ac on. It is not a fuel issue, there was no spark. An hour later the car starts and runs fine. Would love your thoughts around the coil? I’ve replaced it and module several months ago after the first instance. Thanks, Howard
By Tom, June 25, 2011 @ 12:22 am
I would use the GM square coil
By Scott Barnard, July 11, 2011 @ 9:31 pm
Could you please elaborate on model/details of GM square coil? I have your mini hei and coil and was getting ready to mount in obrien truckers aluminum cover. Will this cause it to overheat? I’m in Houston, TX (very hot) but I don’t have A/C.
By Tom, July 13, 2011 @ 2:35 pm
Scott,
The G.M. “Square” Coil is typical of all G.M. HEI usage and is our recommended standard coil for all of our HEI distributors.
It provides more than adequate voltage and spark duration for all except nitro methane racing applications.
Aftermarket high Output” coils are NOT recommended.
Tom
By Keith, May 28, 2011 @ 3:41 pm
I have a 1951 Chevy 3100 pick up with the original 4 speed (with granny gear), the original rear end (which I upgraded to a 3:55 gear) and a 235 engine built in 1956. I plan to rebuild the engine but am not happy with the transmission. What do you recommend for a replacement standard transmission? Can it be used with the original closed driveline? or, is there a way to convert the rear end to an open drive line?
By Tom, May 29, 2011 @ 4:44 pm
You will need an “open” (non torque tube) rear axle to be able to use a good transmission. I would recommend an S-10 5 speed overdrive (from an ’83-’87 S-10 truck with 2.8 L V6 engine). This would have a 27 % overdrive. It would be perfect for the highway cruising up to 70 MPH and still not be weak in the lower gears.
By Keith, May 29, 2011 @ 6:57 pm
Thanks – from reading other posts I see there are lots of potential choices for the rear end – just need to measure for width
By james king, October 4, 2011 @ 5:32 pm
Hey Keith,
I’ve got a similar set-up and am looking to go with the better tranny/rear-end combo. Mine’s a ’53 with a 235 from a ’55 and the granny 4 speed. I’ve located a S-10 tranny ($200) but am not sure which rearend/ drive line to look for. Don’t know about the existing rearend, but suspect it’s stock. Was the 3:55 lower or higher than stock? What did you end up with? I can’t figure out how to post questions to Tom at this site.
Hope to hear from you,
Thanks, james CA
By Tom, October 28, 2011 @ 3:48 pm
Keith,
You need the 1983 – 1987 S-10 type T-5 from a V6 2.8 L only.
Use this with a 3.73 axle ratio for a great combination.
Tom
By Jayde, May 18, 2011 @ 11:29 pm
Hello Tom, I am about to rebuild my 54 235 Blueflame 6. It is fitted to my 46 GMC 3/4 tonne. I am using an offenhauser tripple intake, Williams headers and electronic ignition conversion (all purchased from you), I am fitting three stromberg single down draught carbs with a 7/32″ throat. I am also using a remote oil filter. I have an exceptional machine shop and they are just waiting for directions. I am building my truck for regular use and will often use it to tow loads and sometimes in the hills. I need to build for good low to mid range torque, I will be using 98 octane unleaded.
- What cam shaft should I use?
- Do I need to balance the engine?
- Is there a better harmonic balancer to use?
- Do you think the carb throat diameter is too large?
- What compression ratio do you recommend?
- What ignition timing would you recommend?
Thanks Tom, your advice would be greatly appreciated.
Jayde
By rbrown74, May 11, 2011 @ 10:54 am
Tom, I am I have a problem I hope you could help me with. I have a 1974 chevy pick-up with a 250 inline six and a three speed manual. My upgrades to date are 1.94 stainless intake and 1.60 stainless exhaust valves, a lump port kit and Clifford intake (that does not leak) with a holley 390, I am thinking about a 500 edelbrock . My problem is that my Hooker headers leak at #2,3 cylinders, I have re welded the flange and milled it flat but it still leaks. Would your cast Iron headers help with this problem.
By Tom, May 15, 2011 @ 8:13 am
Yes, our headers are flat and have good flange strength.
It is important that the clamps be strong and load both manifolds parallel to the manifold sealing surface. This is VERY important.
By Gary Norton, April 29, 2011 @ 10:01 pm
Is a small street cam better for mpgs or a fuelmizer cam? thanks
By Tom, May 5, 2011 @ 1:58 pm
Gary,
The factory cam would be the best due to it’s lower idle speed.
Tom
By Mastac, April 20, 2011 @ 11:44 am
dear readers,
i own a
67s camaro with a 230cui engine
390cfm 4bbl holley carb
offy intake
stock exhaust
stock engine cam
stock head
and have the typical holley bog/hesitation during hard acceleration. The car starts very good in summer or winter and has a fine iddle speed. The bog or hesitation occurs only under normal to hard acceleration. The car takes of normally and bogs shortly in every gear at about 1500 to 2000rpm and continues to accelerate smoothly until i have to change up gear.
Recently i bought the optional holley tuning parts (springs, discharge nozzles, cams, …)and finally exchanged the original .25 with a .45 discharge nozzle and put the strongest spring for the secondaries in.
With this change i feel an improvement but still doesn t get completely rid of the old problem/bog.
Can anyone tell me what to do, even after reading reports on other websites i dont have a clou what to do. Some say change the spring on the secondaries others told me to change up or down the discharge nozzle. I know it is very difficult for you to give me an advice but maybe someone have the same engine/carb combination and could give me his specifications on springs nozzles cams…. to try it out…
thank you
greetings from Luxembourg
By Tom, April 26, 2011 @ 11:41 pm
Are you sure your exhaust manifold is operating to heat your inlet manifold?
I recommend using a GM HEI ignition.
By Ron Pringle, May 1, 2011 @ 5:22 am
Try a 1″ spacer under the carb, (open pleninum) not 4 seperate holes. Also try a larger air fiter, more air not more fuel. I found out the hard way that the temperature of the water, coolant for the manifold heater is cooler after it passes though the heater core first. Try running the heater hose that exits the upper part of the block, then to the manifold heater then to the heater core,and then back to the engine. Hope that helps..Good Luck!!..Ron from not so sunny NorCal.
By Tom, May 6, 2011 @ 4:09 pm
Ron,
Proper routing of engine coolant to keep the inlet manifold warm: The supply should be from the thermostat housing, (below the thermostat) through the manifold and return to the water pump.
It should NOT go through the heater unless the heater flows all the time (no coolant shut off valve)
A spacer under the Carb should NOT have any significant effect; but it is frequently quoted folklore!
Tom
By Chuck Gant, April 4, 2011 @ 9:13 am
I have a 1965 Chevy with a 230. The engine is stock with the exception of the distributor and electric fuel pump. The carb is fairly new and recently rebuilt. There is hesitation on acceleration only during the initial push of the pedal; this is accompanied by a very loud sound of air being sucked in. I’m using a 5” open element air cleaner. (this was an issue before carb rebuild and fuel pump) Thanks
By Tom, April 5, 2011 @ 1:58 pm
Chuck,
The sound is normal. Your 5″ open element air cleaner is the cause. That is why the factory air cleaner is designed with larger volume and a snorkle.
Tom
By Ted, March 25, 2011 @ 2:37 pm
I am rebuilding a Chevrolet Nova “63″ 194 and having a hard time finding .60 over rings, any ideas?
Also, needing the cam plate and sleeve.
Thanks!
By Ron Pringle, May 1, 2011 @ 5:30 am
EGGE< is the best sourse for uncommon parts, also try Kanter, I have had good luck getting offthewall parts from those guys,-{Studebaker-flat 6-,They even sent me cam bearings.} Good Luck!! Inliners4ever. Ron.
By Tom, May 5, 2011 @ 4:32 pm
Yes, both companies advertise that they can supply parts for old cars but I have not purchased parts from either company.
Tom
By Sean, March 22, 2011 @ 10:52 am
I have a 65 c10 with a 250 block and the original 230 head milled and steel valve seats. With a eldelbrock 500 and header offy intake combo what HP do you think I should pull? Also do recommend a cam. The cylinders ate all from 120-125psi on the compression test I just did so its strong. Thanks
By Tom, March 27, 2011 @ 10:47 pm
With our Marine .442″ lift cam you should get 200-220 H.P.
Do not forget to heat your Offy Inlet Manifold for driveabiltiy, throttle response, and fuel economy.
By Mitch RIsh, March 21, 2011 @ 11:47 am
Tom,
Will the intake ( Qjet)and factory dual ex. manifolds from a OHC pontiac six actually bolt to a 250 or 292 ? I am looking at one and it looks very close . If not the intake- could the Ex manifold be used with the stock or offy intake???
thanks Mitch
By kd7jkr, February 14, 2011 @ 2:47 pm
I have a 75 c-10 with a 350 and 700r4 and 3.40 rear end, I have considered swapping out the 350 for a 292, I would like to freshen the 292 up and maybe do a few modifications, the goal is to create an engine that would be a reliable daily driver with good torque that would likely operate in the idle-2200 range with the occasional revving punishment, and provide better mileage than the 350, any idea what kind of mileage I could expect? Mileage would be a key component to figuring out if this dream would be worth while. Thanks
By Tom, February 15, 2011 @ 2:51 pm
This would involve motor mounts, flex plate.
Your 292 would need to be complete in every way.
Net gain might be 2 MPG if your carburetion and ignition are perfect.
Tom
By Todd, February 8, 2011 @ 1:16 am
i have a ’61 235 that i want to use in my ’48 chevy coupe, i want a 2 carb intake and a split header, i also want to run a 5 speed from a S-10. everyone tells me their intakes wont fit my motor, either to early or to late! ,and putting a 5speed behind it seems like a strange idea?!?! please help me before i get frustrated and end up with a small block!
By Tom, February 8, 2011 @ 2:53 pm
Todd,
Your upgrades for your ’61 235 are a good idea and we can supply all the parts.
The S-10 5 speed is a particularly good idea and I can help with that too.
Call to discuss and order.
Tom
By Brian, January 27, 2011 @ 12:39 am
Hello,
I have a chevy 250 with an integral cylinder head, is it possible to put headers on it? Or would i have to exchange the integral cylinder head for a non integral and change the manifold?
Thank You
By Tom, January 27, 2011 @ 1:26 pm
You will need to retrofit your engine with the non integral type head.
By Justin, January 20, 2011 @ 1:34 am
I have a 250 CI in a 72 Nova and I was wondering what the most horsepower/torque I can get with your intake and headers and still be able to drive it down the street but take it road racing on the weekends at the tracks. Also, what should I look for in the numbers when choosing a cam for a milled stock head (I’m not sure how much was milled but it seemed like a lot-still runs well)? I calculated the numbers and found out I should either get a 350 CFM 2-barrel or a 390 CFM 4-barrel, which would you choose based on the info provided? I read your article on carbs n cams.
By Tom, January 21, 2011 @ 2:44 pm
Justin,
Maximum practical horsepower for a “street” 250 would be about 260 H.P. and 250 Ft Lbs torque, assuming you install a four barrel, dual exhaust, performance camshaft and a lump port head. The four barrel is your best choice (390 Holly or 500 Edlebrock)
Tom
By Nick, January 16, 2011 @ 2:24 pm
Hello,
I have a 69 250 chev with Clifford (did not know about you and offy then), heated intake, Holley 390 (carb rejetted per clifford spec including boosters) and headers, summit HEI with coil built in. Stock Head was milled .030. I would like to order your street cam but have a persistent problem I must fix before investing any more dollars. At idle it runs mostly smooth but rev it up and on decel you hear “puffing” in each exhaust sounding like a couple of exhaust valves not seating mirrored by a very bouncy vaccum Guage until it levels off relatively stable at 15 inches. It runs rough on accel as well. Timing set at 4 degrees but does not help moving it. I replaced the valve springs (stock) at someones suggestion and recently a new intake/exhaust gasket to no avail. Compression guage shows 160lbs across the board cranking!? (Changed plugs) Pull sprk plug wires one at a timefor balance test and #2 and 3 seem to have little power drop compared to the rest (confusing as they dont share intake port). This set up ran ok for about 2000 miles and got progressively worse Maybe lack of leaded fuel over the many years of running (90,000 miles)? Any help is greatly appreciated. I’m suspecting valves not seating but the compression doesn’t make sense. I checked to see if you offer cylinder heads but looks like not.
By Tom, January 17, 2011 @ 11:36 am
Nick,
1- What is idle vacuum?
2- Call to discuss your HEI.
3- Yes, we have linkage.
Tom
By Harry, December 8, 2010 @ 9:50 pm
I have 1960 Chevy truck engine 235ci, with solid lifters what should the valve lash be set at ?
By Tom, December 9, 2010 @ 2:14 pm
Harry,
Valve lash (HOT) should be .006″ Inlet and .018″ Exhaust.
Beware of rocker arm pallet “grooving” which will give false lash indications.
If you have rocker arm grooving, you will need to re-surface the rocker arms.
Tom
By eramstrom123, November 18, 2010 @ 3:46 pm
Tom, got Headers and intake for my 292 GM. Question, I’m mating this with a, ok stay with me know, a New Process 883 Mopar that was actually used by GM in the early 80′s. All kidding aside because I’m sure you know a heck of a lot more about that then I. Help me if you can to match up a clutch for me…. What else would you need to know? Ed
By Tom, November 19, 2010 @ 10:52 am
Use the disc for the original application (1982 full size van and pick-up).
By felix, November 8, 2010 @ 6:50 pm
heloo im fixing my 1951 chevy truck i want to make it automatic what do i need and what kind of transmission would fit also the stirring what could i use to make it look almost original
By Tom, November 8, 2010 @ 9:09 pm
We do have a transmission adapter but there are too many questions to answer ….please call to discuss (586-739-9601).
By Timo Laine, March 31, 2011 @ 2:20 pm
Dear Sir, I purchase -51 1/2 ton pickup from USA to Finland and now I would like to swap the orginal tranny to 200 4r witch I`ve allredy have. The only thing that I have not worked out is how to build a open driveline to the orginal rear axle. So the question is what parts to use or do I have to replace the whole rear axle?
By Tom, June 24, 2011 @ 11:46 pm
Use a ’55-’62 1/2 ton center section or complete axle.
By Tom, June 24, 2011 @ 11:47 pm
Use a ’5-’62 1/2 ton center section or complete axle.
By Clark, November 2, 2010 @ 8:37 pm
I have an old Offy 4 BBL intake manifold #5416 . There is a flat 3 l/2″ sq.mounting area on the bottom with a 3/8-16 th. hole. Do you sell a water heating plate for this manifold? It”s used on a 292.
By Tom, November 3, 2010 @ 12:48 pm
Clark,
Yes, our heat plate will work on your Offy manifold.
Tom
By Clinton Smith, October 31, 2010 @ 5:53 pm
I have a 1971 chevy pick up with a 292, it has headers and the heads have been shaved, the rest of the engine is stock, I have a limited budget(less than 1600); what can I do to increase horsepower??
By Tom, October 31, 2010 @ 11:12 pm
In order of importance:
– small four barrel and Offenhauser manifold
– dual exhaust and headers
– small street cam
By Rob, October 16, 2010 @ 7:25 pm
I have a ’59 235 in my ’53 belair. I just found out it has solid lifters. The block has oiling passageways drilled through the lifter areas. My understanding is that ’58-’62 were drilled in this manner to accept either solid or hydraulic, and both were used. My question: Can I install hydraulic lifters if the cam is ground for solid? My understanding is that hydraulic lifters will work on either cam, but solid lifters will not work with a hydraulic cam. Can you clarify or confirm my info? Thanks!
By Tom, October 17, 2010 @ 10:02 pm
Yes, the ’58-’62 235 engines were built with both solid and hydraulic lifters but the cams have different designs (opening and closing ramps) for the two lifters. If you install hydraulic lifters (expensive!) your engine will not idle or run well at low speed.
By Tom, December 15, 2010 @ 2:36 pm
Rob,
NO! Either cam is ground to operate ONLY with it’s own type lifters.
Tom
By jim henry, September 29, 2010 @ 12:29 pm
I have a 1950 Bel Air and want to put a 292 in it, do you have the motor mounts and adapter for use of my 1950 power glide tranny
By Wood, September 21, 2010 @ 3:28 am
Sir,
Your site is a great help and is greatly appreciated. I just rebuilt a Chevy 292 in a 1980 C20. The only quandry I have is locating a thermostat housing (The half that bolts to the block). They do not seem to be made anymore. The one on my engine is aluminum and rather pitted. Do you know of anyone that still makes or sells them?
By Bruce, September 21, 2010 @ 2:37 pm
Yes, we have several varieties (mostly iron).
Send a picture of your version, along with your phone number. We can discuss your needs.
Tom