I have a 292 out of a combine, that I’m installing in a 1947 Studebaker pickup. Will a 86-89 Camaro 5 speed, with the bellhousing, fit the Chevy 292 ? Or will it require major modifications?
I also have a 1978 Saginaw 3 speed with bellhousing that came off a 250.
Which setup would you use?
OH!…I’ve installed a 1995 Blazer GT4, 3:73 rear end with G80.
Dennis,
You should use the six cylinder bell housing to put the shifter “straight up”
The Camaro Five Speed will need an S-10 (truck) tail housing (and main shaft) for the shifter to clear the front (bench) seat.
Tom
Is a 292 Chev truck motor(1984 vintage inline six) to tall to fit under the hood of a 1957 Chev sedan without modifying the hood? If this is possible do you have motor mounts for this installation?
Hi Tom,
I’m swapping a 1960 235ci into my ’50 1/2 ton truck. I’m using the orginal (1950) 3 spd. manual trans. Which clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel should i use? I’ve been told the 1950 version of these parts will work. Just wanted to make sure these will be compatible with my ’60 235. Thanks!
Happy New Year,
I have a 54 Chevy truck original with 235 & hydramatic trans. Am thinking I’d like to upgrade to later model 6 and automatic without altering the truck too much. Was wondering if you have any suggestions. I’ve been told that the hydramatics were matched to the blocks individually. I have another 235 block (58) but wondering if a 261 or 292 would be a better choice. I read that you’re discontinuing the mount kits so I’d like to get this sorted soon. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Keith
Hi Tom:
I have a 67 250 from a C10. What will I have to do to put it in a 51 3100 chevy pickup? I would like to use my original driveline and trans. Were do I get the mounts,If it is even possible?
Rick,
This is not an easy swap and does not resolve the real problem (4.11 Ratio torque tube axle)
You will need to move the radiator, bump the toe pan & mounts from Chassis Engineering @ 319-643-2645
Tom
Hey Tom its been a few years since I purchased a cast aluminum valve cover with the Chev logo for my 235 in my 56 chevy. Raised ribbed on the top, from you. I need a set of the plastic bushings that slide into the holes on the cover mine had disinigrated after about 15 years. Do you sell the bushings or can you tell me where I can order them? Thanks and as always very satisfied with your parts and service! Jim
I have a 67 250 engine that I will be putting in a 54 Chevy. What should the compression on a good 250 engine be? Also, I will be ordering the motor mounts you have listed. I will be using a GM700R trans. do you have a rear trans. mount kit for this application? Thank you, Jim
Tom,I have been approached to upgrade the motor in a 34 Chevy sedan,do you recomend building the original engine,or going to a later full oil pressure engine and do you supply any adapters that may be needed
?
David,
I am not very familiar with the 1934 six cylinder engine except that it had only 3 main bearings and I would expect it to not be durable on todays highways. Also, the axle ratio makes the engine run too fast, and the brakes are inadequate. Think about it – it needs to be well coordinated package.
Tom
I have a 48 Chevy 3/4 ton that has the stock rear end. I would like to put in a rebuilt 292 that I have and maybe a 5 speed, is the rear end going to be ok for the Hwy. I have know idea of the gear. How do I make all this happen.
Trent,
Your 3/4 ton rear axle has a 4.57 ratio which will limit highway peed to about 45 mph. You need a T-5 overdrive trans with a .63 overdrive ratio for afinal drive of (4.57 x .63) 2.88. This will allow easy cruising at 65 mph.
We build these transmissions as parts become available. Call to discuss (586-739-9601)
Tom
hi, i have two single barrel rochester carburetors, one is manual choke and the other one is automatic. these two will be going on a fenton or offenhauser double intake that will be on a 235 stovebolt. i need them rebuilt but there are no tags on them anymore. the only thing i know about them is they came off a 56 chevy car and a 57 chevy truck. the other information i have gathered from carb rebuilders is that the manual choke carbs came off a truck and automatic ones came of the cars. is this information correct?
also since this set up will be on a street rod how can i make my automatic choke be disabled where it wont function but allow the carb to continue working like it should?
Jeremy,
I do not have any rebuilders that I can recommend but virtually all customers we talk to are not happy with their Rochester carbs.
We can supply our NEW (not rebuilt) Carter Weber’s ($180.00 per pair) and all associated parts for your 235.
They will work perfectly and will NOT leak!
Tom
Tom-
Not quite sure how to post a question in the correct area.
I am looking for pricing and availability on an exhaust manifold or headers
for a 1969 (I think a Camaro) 250 ci I6. I have a 1950 RatRod Chevy Pickup
mounted on a S-10 frame.
Please let me know if you need additional information from me.
I have a ’66 C-20 with the original L6 and 4 speed manual. After choosing to rebuild the stock engine for more power and even forced induction I tore it down to the bare block. That’s when I noticed a small (and common) crack on the rear passenger side head bolt going through the thin wall to the coolant port at the back. The question is, can the block be repaired/reworked to handle that kind of power or does it need to be replaced?
I recently purchased a 1946 Chevy pickup 1/2 ton. I found a Chevy 230 engine with a powerglide in excellent condition. Will the 230 engine be a direct bolt-in? Also, what gear ratio should I use for the rear axle? I found an S-10 rear axle that I thought about using. I would like to drive in highway traffic up to 65 mph without causing mechanical failure.
Ernie,
The 230 is completely unrelated to the original 216, so nothing “bolts up” or is transferable.
A complete driveline conversion using a S-10 V6 5 speed overdrive transmission, makes a nice set up.
The powerglide would NOT be a good choice because it doesn’t have an overdrive or enough gears.
Tom
I am shopping for a 66 Chevy C60 medium duty truck. I know when I get one, I will want to run it on propane. Since the most common engine is the 292, I wanted to ask you if it is a good candidate for propane conversion, or should I look for a V8?
David,
Probably a 350 V8 with factory hardened valve seats, a four barrel carb, dual exhaust and an overdrive transmission would make the best choice in today’s world.
Tom
I have 200cc Ford inline 6. Will your 1 – 2 barrel carb adapter and $80 carb work on my engine? Would I need to modify the bolt holes on the carb adapter?
Bill,
The carb and adapter will work great but my current versions (Vega) probably will not clear your hood with an air cleaner on.
Call to discuss.
Tom
Hi Tom, I purchased the Holley Weber Carb , and all the stuff to go with it for my 1970 c10 250 ci .
I finally have it installed, everything went according to your instructions, it is sort of running( very rough )
I obviously need different idle jets or air bleeders or coaching . Do you have any tuning tips or know where I can find jets etc?
hi tom i have a 63 nova wagon and am planning on running a 250 l6 crate motor with a hei and want to use your cast iron headers and offy dual carb set up with the carter webers will i have hood clearance issues. also on the exhaust would a y pipe into one work or would i need to run dual exhaust. do you think this would be a good street set up thanks brian
okay tom
where to start i’m running a 1977 250 with non inter head the list of problems goes on . first is that , where the manifolds bolt to heads does not seal well becaouse the two manifolds are not even
. second the mating of two manifolds under the carb will not longer hold a gasket . tell me what you think.
thanks tim
I have a 1950 chevy 235ci that I am tring to put a offy dual carb intake on and am looking for the sleeves that go from the head to the maifold. Any ideas on this?
Thanks
Matt
I have a 250 bored with 307 piston, 2.02 intake valves, 160 exhaust valves, head had been ported and polished, and cc on the flow bench. A 390 carb, headers 2.5 exhaust, Hei dist.a racing cam,M21 tranny in a 70 Nova.
What can I do for more fun? Nitrous? Turbo? or supercharged? and should I change to a different tranny. Thanks for any help.
Rob,
Roller Rockers would NOT provide any measureable benefit unless you have really heavy valve springs.
There are several sources for lump ports. We can supply.
Tom
Tom
I reently purchased a 1948 chevy fleertmaster. It is in fair shape and I did drive it home which was about a 3 hour drive. It is all original. The starter went out. So I purchased a new one and put it in. It seems the fly wheel needs to be just in the right place or the starter grinds. Can I adjust some thing or do I need a new fly wheel?
I am interested in buying the H-W carb, 1bbl to 2 bbl adapter, and linkage to use in a 1979 Chevy Caprice with a 250 engine. Would this combination fit, or would I have clearance problems? Thanks.
Juan,
At 250 cubic inches, in a large vehicle, I don’t think the engine has enough performance potential to invest money in upgrades. Also there WILL be hood clearance issues.
Tom
Tom,
We have a ’39 Chev Master85 2-dr. with ’52 235 engine that has noisy lifters(hydraulic). Can I rebuild with seals or must I replace?
Do you sell lifters that would fit this engine? We just put new rings and reseated valves. Runs great exc. for lifter clatter.
Also, if we want a 5-speed for highway speeds, I have a ’72 1/2 ton P.U. rear w/3.73 gears(open dr.shaft). Would it be an easy conversion to replace original trans/rear end connected to ’52 engine?
Rick,
Yes, we have a motor mount kit ($150.00 + shipping) but the 250 is totally different (and longer) than your original 216.
You also need to change the rear axle and driveshaft.
Tom
hello i have a 1959 gmc 3/4 ton pickup with the inline 270 6cyl. My problem is the rear main seal i’ve installed two new rope seals sence the complete restore of the truck only have 300 miles on it keeps leaking is there a rear main seal convertion for a two piece rubber seal instead of the rope seal any help would be great.
Tom, I recently bought and adaptor plate for my 235 on my 53 cheby,I replaced the original powerglide with a 200 trans. But now im stuck on the drive shaft and differential. Should I change the differential to an open drive like a nova or montecarlo along with the drive shaft or how do i keep my original one?? Thanks
Omar,
All modern transmissions require an “OPEN” driveline.
I recommend a 1983 – 1988 S-10 4WD.
Hope you used a 200 4R trans which works well with a 3.73 ratio axle.
Tom
Tom,
Was wondering if you could suggest where to get and what I will need to complete my install. I have the 235 with a 700R installed. I had no problems with the adapter plate and rear nose mount. My truck is a 1955 First Series with the front engine mount. I know you said I would need somethig to prevent twist. I am not clear on that. What kind of mount and where would it attach? Thank you, Dan.
tom;
Im have a 235 chevy out of a 1954 belair. I really want to do it as good as i can afford. exhaust/intake manifolds,2 2bl carbs, elect ign. aircleaners ,fastners basically everything i can buy from your website. basically im asking you to make my shopping list to include to include everything from adapters to heat shields…but i for sure want the 2 2bl carb set up. also send me a price on your cams…
Mike,
Our “BULLDOG” cam is $120.00 + $99.00 for lifters + your core.
You will need an OFFY intake, Williams headers. heat plat. spacer. two Carter Weber carbs, two carb adapters, two air cleaners, linkage, MINI HEI, spark plugs.
You may also choose Ceramic Coating for the headers $125.00 and Polished the air cleaners look great.
Tom
Tom,
I have a 1955 First Series with a 235 and a hydromatic trans. I have a TH350 that was just rebuilt. I know you recomend a 200 or 700 but I have a 350 can you tell me the advantages and disadvantages if I use the TH350. I already have you dual Weber carbs, Fenton exhaust and HEI. Let me know.
Dan
Dan,
The THM 350 has the following DISADVANTAGES compared to a 200 4R or 700 R4:
1- 10 – 20% less torque off the line
2- 30 – 33% more RPM on the highway
3- Torque convertor slips on the highway
4- Poor fuel economy
5- Noisy exhaust on the highway
6- More engine wear due to higher RPM
All vehicles have had an overdrive transmission, either automatic or manual, since 1984 for these reasons.
Tom
I finally bought my truck. I have wanted one since I started driving. I bought a 1955 First Series with a 235 w/ a 3 speed manual w/ overdrive. I drove it home about 50 miles. I was afraid to take it on the hwy but I put it in overdrive & cruised home. I heald my head up high as I passed a little old lady. Every one else passed me. I have written you before & you suggested that I put a 200 R4 automatic transmission. Can you tell me how much of a difference the 4 speed Automatic will be over my 3 speed manual since they both have an overdrive?
Tom I have a 1951 fleetline sedan with a single rochester carb I was wondering how much peformance gain I could expect installing your dual carb setup with the two carters and offy intake, and also since I am doing this in stages I would be using the stock exhaust manifold what parts do I need, and also the engine is a 235 with a powerglide
I am assuming then that the powerglide is robbing some horsepower and torque” what would be a better solution a 700R4? Wouldn’t this be more costly? what parts, adapters etc would I need? and what kind of gain would I get just installing transmission and not the dual carburetor set up,being that i cannot afford doing both at once, If I had to sell the car, the powerglide retains the originality, not to mention, that the dual carb setup is an eye catcher , however I think I would like the most performance dollar for dollar without sacrificing some originality if doing this in stages it sounds like just a transmission change is more beneficial for everyday driving and performance. what do you think?
I have a 1968 Camaro with a 250 engine. It has an old Clifford 4-barrel manifold that is missing the heat plate. There is a spot under the carburetor for this plate, but I do not see the correct heat plate in your catalog. Do you make a heat plate that would fit this manifold? I spoke with Larry at Clifford Performance, and he said the plate is no longer available through them. I have some measurements for the plate. Could you make me one if I send a sketch?
Thanks for all the technical information on this site. It is helping me correct a number of issues with this setup. I have had poor throttle response since installing this manifold.
Tom, Do you have a recommendation(s) for ‘sealing’ the ‘heat plate’ to the bottom of the stock intake manifold on my 67′ Chevelle (230cid engine)?? Such as either (1) making a gasket from gasket material or (2) using form-a-gasket ?? Do you sell a gasket for the heat plate?? Thanks, Jim
Tom, Thanks for both of your replies/answers to my two questions. The one question concerning whether I could use the ‘temp sensor’ – outlet coming out of the head (on the driver’s side of the head), and also for answering what recommendation(s) you had for sealing the ‘heat plate’ onto the bottom of my stock intake manifold. I appreciate your quick responses/replies. Thanks, Jim
hi tom i have a 52 deluxe car with a 216 and was looking for a intake manifold that will bolt right up and was trying to get a little more from her. I know i have the smaller carb bolt pattern. do you have or know of any manifolds that will fit her and maybe carb suggestion thanks very much
Tom, I bought your ‘dual exhaust’ and ‘heat plate’ back a few months ago, for my 67′Chevelle (230cid). I have a question petaining to the ‘heat plate’. I know that you show in your drawing a water hose/line coming going from the water pump to the heat plate, and also a hose/line running from the heat plate to the heater core hose. Here is my question: On my 230engine there is a ‘temperature sensor’ that comes out of the engine ‘head’; could I install a pipe “T” in the head so that I could install a shorter hose/line to the heat plate, and at the same time still have my ‘temp sensor’ hooked-up to the tee???? Thanks, Jim
Question i am building my 250 adn was looking into heads, i know i need to do a lot of head work so my question is:if i am running 9:5 to 1 compression in a 194 head with smaller chambers, if i run 9:5 to 1 compression in my original head with a bigger chamber am i getting more power from a bigger cc head at 9:5 to 1 or is the 194 head at 9:5 to 1 going to get me more power. I am running a 4bbl carb on it right now.
David,
For most applications, the 250 head is a better choice because the bigger chamber results in better breathing. The stock 194 head chamber is so close to the valves that it restricts breathing (and power).
Tom
hello, i have a 1996 chevy s10 2.2 with a 5 speed tans i was thinking of throwing in a auto trans from a truck the same year will the auto work with my manual rear end?
tom; the electronic ignition system and verbal assistance
that i received from you this spring greatly improved the
the running of the 235 engine in my 1950 chev truck.
plugs are burning very clrean.
thanks, wil.
Tom, I am the orginal owner and operator of a 1968 Camero with the 235 6 cyl, single barrel Rochestor carb. The engine now has just shy of 400,000 miles, but have been well cared for, with overhauls to bring everything back into standards. Due to changes in the fuel in the previous fifteen to twenty years, no longer using leaded fuels, I find performance much less than I used to get from my engine. Starting is more difficult and the higher top end speeds no longer available. I was considering going to a dual carburator manifold, using two single barrel carburators, instead of the single barrel now in use. Will this give me any better performance or what should I be looking to do to improve starting and top end performance?
Pat
hi
1960 chev 235 p30 (calif. body type/model=HSCR) manual 3 speed. would like to convert to auto transmission. can’t seem to find any guidance on how to make this happen. converted to rv in the 70s, sat last 12 years in someone yard and i since restored and updated inside – now body/paint. considering engine swap i.e. no oil filter/pump and noise. suggestions? thanks
I talked with last week. You gave me a name of Paul Curtis, that has transmision adaptor for the Plymouth flathead 6, to the T-5 transmission. Have tried and have not been able to concat him. Do you have a E-Mail address or phone number to concat him?
I have a 53 chevy bel air powerglide im putting a 235 from a 59.the original brakets dont line up with the new motor do u have something for this problem. thanks
Hi.
do you ship the stove bolt cast iron headers for the chevy 250 to Australia ? The postal/zip code is 3004
If so, what would the shipping cost be ?
They are for a 250 chevy in a 70 El Camino running an Offy intake and a Holley 4 barrel.
Thanks,
Frank.
Frank,
Yes, We can ship the headers to Australia.
You will also need a heat plate ($30.00) for your Offy Intake.
Shipping by U.S. Priority Mail (6 – 10 Days) will be approximately $160.00
Tom
tom !!!!!!! great site . just got a 1965 3/4 4 wheel 292 chevy pickup heres my tale .engine has been tuned up idles great 125 each cylinder shifts well .but as i go down rd. from acold start i get into 4th make abouy 2 miles then sputter roll stall .wont start wait 15 min. off i go this time same thing but half the distance before problem .wait 15 min same thing ,.only distance before sputter roll stall is halved yet again?? carb was cleaned no change .this truck prior to my purchase had sat for awhile .this one has my limited abilities stumped please help thanks kerchog
I purchased a Holley 5200 carb from you back in 2008 and am just now installing it in a 67 Ford Mustang w/200 ci six. You recommended a specific set of jets (two I think) be installed but I did not receive them with the carb, can you please let me know what sizes they are and were they’re supposed to go?
Hi Tom,
I am pulling the 235 out of the frame so I can take a good look at it. I found a small copper line that is in line with a tee going to the top of the oil canister. It runs to the passenger side and looks like it goes into the oil channel just below the valve cover. The engine numbers show a 58 block and head, it has been completely rebuilt(by a local machine shop). So what is it and should it be left there or removed?
Tom
I have a 1950 Desoto with 236 Flathead and would like to add performance, first is this a good engine for this? if so do you have headers, intake, etc for this engine?
Jerry,
This is a durable engine but there were never many “SPEED” parts made in the 1950′s and none made now.
We do make some custom parts for this engine however.
There was a larger (265 Cu. In.) version of this engine used in the 1953 and 1954 Chryslers.
Call to discuss,
Tom
I messaged you earlier about a rear and trans for a beefed up 6 but realized that I have a 216 motor, which from reading online isint the best motor to beef up due to a bad oiling system so I was wondering what your suggestion be for another 6 that would work with the rear and s10 trans you suggested, and if you might know where I could buy the newer motor you would suggest.
Hi, I have a 65 GMC panel truck with a 250 inline 6 and the”three on the tree”. I was looking into picking up an offy 2×1 intake and using the pair of carbs you sell on the site. I would also like to use a set of the stovebolt split headers. My question is. Will this set up work well for daily driving and some highway use? Also, what accesories will I need to make this set up work and what mods, if any, will I need to do for clearance?
Frank,
The set-up you describe will work well for your application. You will need 2 carbs; 2 air cleaners; 2 adapters and linkage. Also you will need to connect the linkage to yor vehicle linkage.
Tom
Dear Sir,
I have a 1951 Chevy P/U 3100 with a 1961 235 recently rebuilt. It has a 4 speed transmission on the floor. I would like to convert to an automatic transmission. Can you advise hardware needed and cost to acquire said hardware. Any advise would be appreciated. It has been my wife’s truck, but I would like to drive and only have one arm which makes it illegal to drive. I’ll need to look at power steering alson I think and converting to 12volt system.
John,
You will need our transmission adapter, a shifter, a trans cooler and an “OPEN” driveline and new driveshaft.
For adding power steering, contact Buffalo @ 360-652-7684. 25625 Dahl Road, Arlington, WA, 98223
Tom
hi Tom I have a 194 motor in my 65 chevelle and I am told your headers,intake manifolds are the best to get, but I live in Canada ONT and you do not ship to here. is there some were I can still get stovebolt parts
TOM,
I HAVE A VERY NICE 52 BEL AIR HARDTOP. I WOULD LIKE TO PEP IT UP SOME. AM NOT INTERESTED IN V-8 BUT THOUGHT YOU MIGHT SUGGEST A SIX THAT I CAN MAKE INTO A GOOD HIGHWAY CRUISER AND ALSO KICK UP A LITTLE SAND IF THE NEED SHOULD ARISE. THANX TOM
BARRY RADCLIFFE
Barry,
Is your car a powerglide?
Do you want a stick or an automatic?
What is your budget?
Are you willing to change the rear axle and transmission?
Tom
Barry,
A 1954 235 or 1954 (Truck) 261 would make an excellent up grade to your 216.
Also the driveline will provide equal if not more improvement than the engine.
Do you now have a stick shift 3 speed or Powerglide?
Do you prefer a 5 speed overdrive stick or a 4 speed automatic overdrive.
Tom
Hello Tom
I have a C10 with 292, 4speed and 3.73 rear. I would like to replace the trans with a TH700r4 and the carburetor w/Holley 600 cfm and kick down. Is this a good combination. Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks for your help.
Mike
Mike,
This will make an excellent combination, although the 600 CFM carb is more than you need.
Make sure you water heat the inlet manifold and do not use tubular headers due to poor quality which will result in chronic gaskets leaks.
Tom
Cole,
Use a T-5 five speed from a 1983 – 1987 S-10 (With a V6 engine ONLY!) combined with an axle from a 1955 – 1962 1/2 Ton or 1963 – 1967 1/2 Ton (6 Lug).
Tom
hi tom, we discussed routing for the hot water for the intake, i have the therm housing adapter ordered . i was looking at the left side of the block near the pan rail and there is a petcock for draining the block, my question is could i run the hot water return in that spot instead of going to the other side of the eng to the heater ?
thanks
bill
Hello, I have an Inline 250 Chevy In my 27″ carvers bay lobster boat. With the ancient barr marine wet exhaust mainifold. I was curious as to if you know of a place to get a riser elbow cheap for the end opposite to the hose fittings. Or if one would be able to rig an elbow welded to a piece of steel that would bolt on the end.
Thank Ya.
getting ready to purchase this item SKU 08-9500-1 and the question that I have is the rest of the linkage. The linkage from the gas pedal to the carb linkage. Do I use stock or do I purchase after market. Thank you!
I have a 70 Nova 250 inline 6 with a 1 barrel Rochester manual choke. I was looking to upgrade to a 2 barrel. What would be recomended for 2 to barrel setup.
Thanks
Our Holley Weber would make a nice upgrade for your 1970 Nova but hood clearance may be an issue.
“Clay Check” the total distance from the manifold to the hood and let me know or call to discuss.
Tom
I am looking forward to ordering parts from you for my 292 in my 1950 Chevy five window, I have a question for you though. How can I tell if my motor is a early 292 or a late one? I am pretty sure its early but want to be sure. I want to put your dual carb set up with your headers on it. But I am also wanting to freshen up the motor so I need to figure out if its early or late.
Bud,
Give us the casting number from the fuel pump side of the block and we will identify it for you.
All the basic parts are interchangeable throughout the years.
Tom
Hi Tom I am running a chevy 250 six with no heater in the car and I was wondering if I need to run a bypass hose from the pump to the t-stat housing or can I just cap them off. I currently have one capped and the other is for my temp sender. If the car sits and gets cool the thermostat will not open on initial fire up unless i crack the cap then it seems fine and runs right on the t-stat at 195 degrees. Maybe, do I have a bad air lock although I have bled the system and cracked th cap multiple times or is it maybe a faulty t-stat or is it beacuse I do not have a proper bypass hose. Any info would be a great help and thanks again.
Hi Tom,
I have another qestion regarding a tramsmission for my 235 gm motor. I have been reading that a t5 s10 80′s model will be a nice set up! Can you give me a range between years i should be looking at? This will also go on my 1952 chevy pickup.
How would I be able to tell what year motor I have. I believe I have a gm 235 1955 model, I was reading online and found this blog that said the year 55 or earlier you will have 4 bolts on the cover on top and later models will have 2 long bolts protruding out of it. Any way here are som # I foud on the engine CON4 A224, 0244877 T54X. Would I need to get a different bellhousing to fit this trany to my engine?
Hi, I really dont have any experience restoring an engine but i believe I have a 1955 or older 235. i am going to put it into a 52 chevy truck. I believe I am missing a few parts that goes on the engine! Dont know if this model came with an oil filter. wondering if there is a manual for these engines? HELP
Give us the engine casting number and we will identify what your engine is.
Then you can purchase a factory shop manual which would be the best information source for a rebuild.
Tom
Hi Tom,
I am putting together a 292 inliner engine and have done a lot to it. I have gas pistons + 0.060 in the block. The head has lump ports 0.550 lift springs and was decked 0.030 0.194 intake and 0.160 exhaust valves. A single edelbrock 500 cfm carb. This is going in an early very light truck with a turbo 350 and a 350 rear end gear I presently have a RV cam in it and was wondering if it is defeating the work I did by using this cam? The truck is just street driving.
I am looking to order a dual carb setup with split header for my 54 Bel Air. Its a 235 blue flame#0707264 F54Y. It needs carbs, header, intake, gasket, linkage and etc…… Do you sell everything to do the job? And what Carbs/intake/header do you suggest?
Hi Tom,
I have a Chev 261 block that I bought from you years ago. I have a Clifford 4BBL intake, Clifford tube headers.
I want to install a set of Fentons, but they seem to be hitting the bottom of the intake. There’s a boss that hangs down a bit with a pipe plug for water heat (I’m using the plugs on the side of the intake for that). Can I grind that area flat to the bottom of the water jacket, or should I fabricate 1/4″ or 3/8″ spacers with longer intake alignment rings to move the intake away from the head to gain the clearance I need?
Thanks,
John
Hi , I need some advice on my newly rebuilt 54 235. The builder put hydraulic lifters in it. The engine number is 0487323F54XA. This indicates a 1954 3600 (3/4Ton) made in Flint Michigan (undoubtedly a manual tranny).
I am told that the only blocks that year drilled for hydraulic lifters were passenger cars with automatic transmissions (powerglide).
Several people on the stovebolt page have said don’t even run the motor or I will do damage. The builder says he does this all the time. The motor does not run right (lack of power and surging at high RPMS) but there is no lifter noise. I am bringing it back to the builder on Thursday. I have not talked to the machinist to see if he drilled the block for hydraulics but he said he did everything to make the engine run right and will make it right when I bring it back. I have a 1 year warrantee. Will I regret not having solid lifters put in in 2 years????
Also I am running straight 30 weight oil is that also a problem?
Thanks
Rich
!. What is the block CASTING number?
2. Is it a big journal cam or small journal?
3. What type camshaft was the engine built with? (Hydraulic or Mechanical)
4. Was the block “drilled” for hydraulic?
5. Hydraulic lifters on a mechanical cam will run poorly especially at idle.
I need some advice on my 1954 235 I just had rebuilt. The builder put hydraulic lifters in it.
The engine number is 0487323F54XA. This indicates a 1954 3600 (3/4Ton) made in Flint Michigan (undoubtedly a manual tranny). I am told that the only blocks that year drilled for hydraulic lifters were passenger cars with automatic transmissions (powerglide).
Several people on the stovebolt page have said don’t even run the motor or I will do damage. The builder says he does this all the time. The motor does not run right but there is no lifter noise. I am bringing it back to the builder on Thursday. Should I insist on solid lifters or is this ok? I have not talked to the machinist yet to see if he drilled the block for hydraulic lifters. They said they did everything to make it run right and will make it right when I bring it back. I have a 1 year warrantee…will I be regretting this in 2 yearswhen the engine craps out????
What products do yoiu offer to outfit a T5 tranny to a 1947 Dodge 1/2 ton PU with an original 230 CI, 4 speed tranny / bellhousing driveline. Looking to retrofit the tranny for all the gear bashing, 45 mph speed reasossns. I have seem your frm’s name come up a number of times in searching the web on this subject. Would be interested in a complete soltion (all parts included) if you have one.
I am still working on my 1/2ton 1952 Chevy Truck. I have a STD 250ci with a Clifford intake and your cast iron headers. Do you know of an off the shelf exhaust system from Summit or the like that will work with this set up. It seems that everything I have seen is for V8 applications. If I can get something close and modify that would be OK too. Also, your recommendations for exhaust pipe sizes and mufflers for best sound.
Thanks, -GW
Hi Tom!
I read or heard somewhere that the 292 should have the block decked to improve quench area.Is this correct? If so how far would I go?this is a 78 chevy p/u 1/2 ton daily driver.runs ok now,am just gathering info for rebuild. thanks, AllenJ, N.M.
Hi, bought an HEI dist. (6 cyl, 261) from you a couple years back. I don’t have an ignition switch yet and usually disconnect the battery after running; however I left town for a weekend and forgot, leaving the lead to the coil hot. Now, after recharging the battery from 2.5V, the truck won’t start. I’m getting a spark, but it does seam a little weak. I put my commuter car’s battery in parallel just in case and still nothing. Coil resistances read fine. Do you think I damaged my HEI control module?
I would think this normally would not be a problem but almost any auto parts store can check it for free.
I can supply another module for $5.00 + $5.20 shipping if you like.
Tom
Allen,
Probably about 2000 – 2200 RPM. It is a trade off between performance and fuel economy.
You will need an overdrive trans to get this. I recommend an S-10 5 speed with a 3.73 axle ratio.
Tom
I have 235 with casting numbers 3769716, and serial number F0406J0. I can’t find a matching application for it. The head is 3836848. Can you help me out with figuring out if I need to do the trick to the rockers oiling system.
Alex
Alex,
Your 3769716 block is for a 1958 – 1962 235 car and truck. The 3836848 is also correct for this application.
You can pinch the rocker supply overflow tube if you want but you need valve stem seals if you do this.
Tom
tom, in mounting the coil for my hei distributor,
will i be able to use the holes in each corner of
the metal ring that surrounds the coil?
does plug gap still remain at .060 on the
champion plugs? order#250
Im working on a 40 something model 235 straight 6 in a ratrod pickup . I need a 9 bolt pressure plate or a flywheel that takes the 6 bolt presure plate . Tis engine has 3 dow pins in the crank . Doesanybody make this stuff ?
Hi,
I recently puchased an 3 carb intake “McGurk” like the one in your 39 chev. I was going to install it on a 235 chev in my 39 Chev sedan delivery. Now Im not sure if it even fits a 235 or other application. Is there an easy way to know (any measurement?). Also, will your carbs work on this? There are Rochesters mounted on the intake now. Also, do you sell a linkage set? Any potential problems with clearance in the 39 chev? I am interested in using an automatic trans, and up tp date rear. What do you recommend? Thanks!
HELLO I’M IN THE PROCESS OF BUILDING A 292 MARINE ENGINE AND MY QUESTION IS WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST CAMSHAFT TO GO WITH THIS ENGINE THE ENGINE IS GOING IN A 22′ REINELL CABIN CRUISER AND WAS WANTING SOME THING THAT HAS A NICE LOPY SOUND TO IT THANK YOU MUCH
Question:
I’m installing a 250 out of a 74 Nova into a 41 Chevy 3/4 T pickup. I’m interested in information on bell housing choice, motor mounts recommended to install a T5 transmission in this vehicle. Thanks, Wally
I just purchased a 1964 Chevy K10 to use for daily driver/street and minor 4x4ing. It has a stock 292 L6, 4 speed floor shift, 33×10.50×15″ stock lift. I would like to add headers, a 2x2bbl or 3x1bbl intake or a 1x4bbl whatever would work best, an RV or Marine cam, all to boost HP/torque to tap it’s potential. Engine has 92000 original miles and runs very well. Is there a benefit to the webers over other multi carb combos. My goal is to focus toward a 50′s/60′s hotrod muti carb engine to boost power and do a classy rat rod type of build on the truck. Just looking to do bolt on perfomance add ons at this time, and when I go to rebuild I will do head work, etc more indepth at that time. Thanks for any help or recommendations you can offer. Great site! Steve
The four barrel would be equivalent to the 2×2 Carter Weber set up. Because they are both a “Progressive” design – primaries and secondaries. The triple carb set-up can run well but usually has clearance problems at the rear carb. We have a “Marine” cam that works well for street use.
Hello,Just wanted to say I like the new web page and you use to sell t shirts?Do you or are you going too for all of us who want to brag about our six.Thanks have a great day Brian
I have a 250cu in a 84 chevy 1/2 ton i am looking to rebuild it and i want it to sound mean and have some serious power. I have seen guys drag race with these engines i don`t want something that insane i just want it to be able to hold its own any advice on what parts and what to do. It also has a kinda loud knock coming from deep in the enigine i was told it could be a wrist pin and so i tried pulling spark plug caps and it had no effect on the knock any ideas i thought it would atleast soften the noise.
I am purchessing a ’84 c10 with a 250 inline 6 and have a few questions.
1st) Should the long header’s fit in my truck?
2nd) What would you suggest me doing with intake, seeing as the intake manifold is integrated in the head, should i buy a new head? And if so, what carb set up should i go for, while retaining as much mpg as possible, but giving enough fuel to increase power.
3rd) What choices do i have as far as the valve cover’s go? I see alot of them for the 230′s, and other I6′s but they say specifically not for my application because of the intake manifold.
Thanks for your time
Kasey
Kasey,
We do NOT sell any headers for your integral type head, similarly there are no valve covers available.
I would first install a 5 speed overdrive and consider an original style cylinder head with a small four barrel.
Tom
Hello Tom, I have ordered a set of side covers for a 250 Chevy. I was wondering if you may have a damaged set or maybe a set that is not perfect. Please don’t think I am a cheap scape it is just that I will be powder coating these pieces. The engine will not be a flashey chrome. I am looking for an origiinal nice looking engine that someone may ask if that is what came in a 36 Chevy? By the way the dual truck breathers are perfect for what I was after. If you do not have a problem set, $90 will be OK. Also would like a good set of side cover gaskets. can I contact you after 6PM? let me know. Thanks tom.
Hello Tom,
Great website. Just bought a 65 Chevy truck w/ a 230 cid 6 cylinder. Arron, the guy I got it from refered me to your website. He had put hedman headers on it and lost the heat to the intake. Gas milage is horrible and the plugs were black after my 9 hour drive home from Iowa. First step is to replace plugs and rebuild the carb. Is there an easy way to heat the intake with headers? It gets 10mpg right now….
Hi Tom,
I also have a 65 Chevy with a 6 cyl. casting # is 3850817 GM 28 (located bewtween dipstick and distributor) Is this a 230?? It has a heat riser on the exhaust manifold but the spring is broken off. How does that go back on?? I bought a new one but cant quite fiquire it out. What are the benifits of replacing it??
Steve,
Your 3850817 block was used on both 230 and 250 Cu. In. engines thru 1978.
The heat riser spring tang goes into a split in the end of the shaft.
The spring and butterfly inside are engineered to provide quicker manifold warm-ups and then preventing too much heat in the intake manifold later on.
Tom
Hi Tom, My car is a Chevy 2dr hdtp and am thinking of changing the transmission per our conversations in the past. You recommend a 700r4. Any one? And the rear axle and differential from certain S-10s. What ones? Thanks Tim Weimer
I have 1955? chev 6 tied to 3 speed tran.– plan to use engine in t bucket –add 350 auto tran.
1.Will engine bolt up ok to trans?
2. Can I use flywheel [auto] from sbc to replace existing on straight 6???
Herb,
No, the 235 has a completely different bolt pattern from the THM350 and this is also true for the flexplate.
We do make an adapter kit. ($350.00) Here is a link to it:
Hey there, I am trying to locate some info and a round about value for a intake manifold for an inline chevy 6, I have found a handful of information but nothing on what it may be worth. It is an Edmunds customs 2 by 2 bbl carb setup using Ford 94 carbs. If you could give me some more info on it and perhaps what it may be worth, thanx. Nico
I have a 64 Chevy short stepside that belonged to my Grandpa. I rebuilt the 230 in 2001, new hardened valves and all. The engine has less than 2500 miles since, but I’m ready to “jazz it up”. Everyone says drop in a V8, but I want a strong six that is dependable. I’m planning on giving the truck to my granddaughter in a few years.
I’ll need to add power steering, power brakes and an automatic. Do you suggest I hop up the 230 or go to a 250 or 292? Will I be able to find brackets for the power stuff? If you suggest keeping the 230, what mods can I make to give it a strong boost yet be a good street driver?
Keep up the great work and I enjoy all your comments and advice.
Thanks
Deryl
Tom, I’m wondering about your intake heat plates. Are the barbed fittings sized for a 5/8″ heater hose? Do you supply the gasket to seal as well? It’s for my Offy tri-carb manifold on my 261.
Peter,
The hose barbs are for 3/8″ hose. Normally we do NOT recommend running the coolant through the heater because some heaters turn off the coolant flow when you turn off the heater. A gasket is not supplied, I recommend using gasket type paper and cut to fit.
Tom
I have a 250 six with a 3 x 1 offy intake and was wondering if a guy could run 3 of your carter/weber carbs and if you would have a linkage set up for it, also tuning tips? If this is not possible who provides either base plates or complete rebuilt one barrel carbs for my existing set up. The secondary base plates have poor throttle shafts and I can’t tune the car. What jet size should be run in the primary carb and the secondary carbs.
Kent,
Yes, our Carter / Weber carbs would work great on your 250.
We can supply linkage also. Clearance to the firewall may be a problem!
What size throttle blades (1-9/16″?) are you using on your secondary carbs?
Tom
I have a chevy 250 inline six; stock manifold, stock exhaust, and stock 1 barrel rochester. Can I run your Stovebolt Cast Iron exhaust headers with the stock manifold? I heard it might require some grinding to fit. Also would I need to have a heat plate, if so which one and what does this do?
Hi there I have a 76 gmc 1/2 ton with 250 Inline-6. just put in a rebuilt electric choke rochester monojet carb. Cant seem to get it running right think the timing is out, I was wondering if you would know what the timing, and rpm should be set at while idiling and things i can do to get good fuel economy? Thank you for your time.
The pair of “Carter Webers” that we recommend for dual carb applications are Weber Model 32DFTA as used on Ford Escorts (1983).
Does this answer your question?
Jason,
We sell two different Weber carbs:
- For single carb applications – The Weber 32/36
(Rebuilt) (As used on the Ford Pinto and Vega)
- For dual carb applications – The Weber 32 DFT (We refer to them as “Carter / Weber” because Carter manufactured them for Weber)
(NEW) (As used on the Ford Escort)
Tom
I was wondering if I could use a high tork mini starter for a chevy to put on the adapter kit. Also does anyone know of a site I can get other parts for my 235, (oil pick up, freeze plugs, some hard to find parts)
Tom
I have installed your HEI ignition on my 66 PU with a 260 I6
I’m having issues with getting the specified plugs.
I presently have AC R44X and they seem to work but possibly not just right
I have tried to get the R44SX and find that it is obsolete. The cross reference is a R43S which is too short.
My local NAPA guys have no suggestions. I have tried several websites for other plugs but have already had to return two sets that were not adequate.—- What do you recommend these days?
Thanks-Tom
Just a few questions on the offenhauser set-up for the 2 carter/weber carbs I purchased from you a while back for my 250 Chevy. How critical is it for the fuel inlet be facing toward the front of the engine? Not that it matters, but the linkage set-up works better the other way. Also, What size fuel lines do you recamend from the fuel pump to the carbs? A fuel filter will be placed after the fuel pump. Thanks Mark.
Mark,
The Carter Weber’s do operate well with linkage toward the drivers side of the vehicle (one vehicle so far)
You should use 5/16″ fuel lines.
Let me know if you try the “INLINE” linkage arrangement.
Tom
Hi i have a 69 c-10 with a 250 inline stock with headers it feels like the motor is not getting enough fuel with the stock carb its like i have to almost floor it to go up a steep grade i was wondering if your weber carb with adapter and water heater will make a difference thank you Frank also can i use my stock carb linkage
First you need to add our heat plate ($30.00) to your stock intake manifold.
Our Holley Weber Carb is also a nice upgrade but you will need to fabricate your own linkage.
Tom
Tom,
I would like to upgrade a stock 230 to a dual single-bbl carb set-up. I can find the Offy 2×1 manifold on your site, but which heat plate and linkage set would I need? I have two 1bbl Rochesters, so no special carb adapters should be required. Thanks much for your assistance.
-Paul Fink
Tom,
Sounds good. I submitted the order… I’m not a fan of the 1bbl Rochesters, so I went ahead with the Carter-Webers from the site. Thanks again for your help.
-Paul
I would like to put the Fenton Headers on my 54 chevy truck 235 ci motor….But I would like to keep my stock carb…is there a single carb manifold you carry that would work ? and would I have to get a new heater plate?
or is there a better carb I can use that would be a better fit with the headers.
Thanks
Jim
Jim,
You can use your stock manifold and stock carb or upgrade to our Holley Weber progressive two barrel on your stock manifold.
You will need to add water heat to your stock intake manifold to get good driveability (if you install Fenton headers which do not provide heat to the intake. Call if you would like to discuss. (586-739-9601).
Tom
I’m looking for the plastic bushings Chevy/GMC used on the 1970′s vintage 3 speed transmission. These are the bushings that over the ends of the linkage tubes from the column shifter when they are attached to the transmission shift arms. Hurst has a Pit Pak of bushings and clips, but the bushing ID is a bit bigger.
I have a 1954 261 that has a lot of miles on it. I would like to send it to a machine shop for a rebuild. I would also like to convert to hydraulic lifters with a more aggressive camshaft. I live in Dallas, Texas. Do you know of a local engine builder that you could send me to? This would save the issues with palletizing and shipping my engine.
Tim,
The 1954 261 (Truck) engine should NOT have the gallery for hydraulic lifters. Check it out.
I do not know the Dallas area but if you join Inliners International, you could check with Inliners in that area for their advice.
Tom
i have a chevy six cylinder (261) and i am trying to install it into a 1953 chevy Belair Coupe. i was told that i will have to change the motor mounts so it would fit. do have a mounting system fort his? or can you provide a solution for what i have to do? thanks
I have a 71 Chevy P/U with a 292 and am on a limited budget — what is the best way to obtain 300 hp? I have headers currently… and the engine is stock.
Want to replace the single rochester ,have a 2 barrel adapter ,do you think an early 70;s Pinto 2 barrel will work ,linkage not a problem as I can fab that,or what readily avalible 2 barrel will work. Its on a 64 Nova 230 motor . Thanks
the question i have is in regards to the speedo cable. i own a 53 chevy with a 3 speed coloumn shift. i am going to be putting autometer gauges in. i am curious wether the old cable will work or if i have to buy an aftermarket one.
We are thinking of putting a 292 on an s-10 frame with some type of automatic tranny, is this possible? What about engine and tranny mounts? We are going to mount a 1948 chevy pickup on the frame. What do you think? Suggestions?
Chrysler 251 and 265 flathead engines are popular engines used in antique tractor pulling tractors. The updraft manifolds with upturned exhaust are really tough to find though. Industrial engines usually had this setup. I see you offer an exhaust manifold that fits these engines but looks like it only bolts on one way. Does anyone make an aftermarket updraft manifold that will work on a tractor? I’ve also seen industrial engines with reversible manifolds. Do you know if that style is available anywhere?
Zack,
We have made our headers upside down for the tractor pull application. Also why not just turn the pass car inlet upside down?
We have several Zenith Up draft carbs that are bigger if you are interested. Call me.
Tom
Help1 I have a 47 Chevy pick up with a 6 cyl engine. I can not find the engine number in any of the listings on the various web sights including the inliners sight. The number is 350I679. I thought I had a 216ci and bought a replacement water pump. The bolt pattern was different, so now I don’t know what I have. Not even sure it is a Chevy engine. Thanks………….Steve
Tom, have you ever tried or messed around with fuel injecting any of these engines? I have a 57 235 in a 1941 chevy sedan backed by a 5 speed. I have been wondering about the possibility of doing this with direct port injection or a type of throttle body. My father has run his 235 coast to coast from Ohio to Cali and Florida up into the New England states in his 51 Fleetline chev. We built it about 15 years ago and it is still going strong today!
I am also looking for a cam and lifters for this engine. What would be a suggestion for this. I would like to give the car a little thump, but still be able tto drive it on the street.
My sons and I are restoring a ’46 chevy 2-ton truck with 235. What Carb setup do you recommend and would you recommend the electronic distributor? Thanks,
Chip
I have a 57 Dodge 1/2 ton with a 315 Poly V-8. The bellhousing input bearing retainer diameter is 5.125″. Their are multiple bolt patterns on the back of the bellhousing which leads me to believe this could be a factory universal bellhousing made to mount transmissions to the inline 6′s or the V-8′s. Do you have any experience with the early Dodge hemi’s or poly’s? I’m hoping that the kit you make for the inline six would be useful on my motor. Let me know if there are particular things I need to measure to ensure compatability.
Tim,
The 5.125″ bearing retainer diameter indicates that your bellhousing is different than the inline six.
I’m not familiar with the V8 bellhousings so I’m sorry but I can’t help.
Tom
hi i got a chevy 292 in my mud race car i think its the best engine for that but right know i need more power please need some tricks i am from venezuela i have tri every think but not the perfect combination so i need some help
By Dennis Major, January 12, 2012 @ 3:33 pm
I have a 292 out of a combine, that I’m installing in a 1947 Studebaker pickup. Will a 86-89 Camaro 5 speed, with the bellhousing, fit the Chevy 292 ? Or will it require major modifications?
I also have a 1978 Saginaw 3 speed with bellhousing that came off a 250.
Which setup would you use?
OH!…I’ve installed a 1995 Blazer GT4, 3:73 rear end with G80.
By Tom, January 18, 2012 @ 12:52 pm
Dennis,
You should use the six cylinder bell housing to put the shifter “straight up”
The Camaro Five Speed will need an S-10 (truck) tail housing (and main shaft) for the shifter to clear the front (bench) seat.
Tom
By jerry johnson, January 10, 2012 @ 11:41 am
Tom
Is a 292 Chev truck motor(1984 vintage inline six) to tall to fit under the hood of a 1957 Chev sedan without modifying the hood? If this is possible do you have motor mounts for this installation?
Thanks
Jerry Johnson
By Tom, January 11, 2012 @ 1:20 pm
Jerry,
Yes, the height is O.K. but I do not have motor mounts.
Tom
By Brian, January 9, 2012 @ 8:39 pm
Hi Tom,
I’m swapping a 1960 235ci into my ’50 1/2 ton truck. I’m using the orginal (1950) 3 spd. manual trans. Which clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel should i use? I’ve been told the 1950 version of these parts will work. Just wanted to make sure these will be compatible with my ’60 235. Thanks!
By Tom, January 11, 2012 @ 1:18 pm
Brian,
Yes, use all your 1950 parts including the starter motor.
Tom
By Keith W, January 6, 2012 @ 1:34 pm
Happy New Year,
I have a 54 Chevy truck original with 235 & hydramatic trans. Am thinking I’d like to upgrade to later model 6 and automatic without altering the truck too much. Was wondering if you have any suggestions. I’ve been told that the hydramatics were matched to the blocks individually. I have another 235 block (58) but wondering if a 261 or 292 would be a better choice. I read that you’re discontinuing the mount kits so I’d like to get this sorted soon. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Keith
By Tom, January 9, 2012 @ 5:19 pm
Keith,
I would use a 261 with a 200 4R or 700 R4 automatic overdrive with a 3.73 or 3.90 (open type) rear axle.
Tom
By Rick Flahart, January 4, 2012 @ 8:43 am
Hi Tom:
I have a 67 250 from a C10. What will I have to do to put it in a 51 3100 chevy pickup? I would like to use my original driveline and trans. Were do I get the mounts,If it is even possible?
Thanks
Rick
By Tom, January 9, 2012 @ 5:11 pm
Rick,
This is not an easy swap and does not resolve the real problem (4.11 Ratio torque tube axle)
You will need to move the radiator, bump the toe pan & mounts from Chassis Engineering @ 319-643-2645
Tom
By Jim Cardwell, January 3, 2012 @ 7:40 pm
Hey Tom its been a few years since I purchased a cast aluminum valve cover with the Chev logo for my 235 in my 56 chevy. Raised ribbed on the top, from you. I need a set of the plastic bushings that slide into the holes on the cover mine had disinigrated after about 15 years. Do you sell the bushings or can you tell me where I can order them? Thanks and as always very satisfied with your parts and service! Jim
By Tom, January 6, 2012 @ 8:00 am
Jim,
I don’t have plastic but I have modern rubber matieral. Send me $5.00 to cover parts and shipping.
Tom
By ianbaldwin32, January 3, 2012 @ 11:30 am
will the weber 32/36 DFEV carb fit on a 4.1 inline 250 integrated head
By Tom, January 3, 2012 @ 1:34 pm
Ian,
NO, the bolt pattern is quite different.
Tom
By Jim McNeal, January 3, 2012 @ 2:56 pm
I have a 67 250 engine that I will be putting in a 54 Chevy. What should the compression on a good 250 engine be? Also, I will be ordering the motor mounts you have listed. I will be using a GM700R trans. do you have a rear trans. mount kit for this application? Thank you, Jim
By Tom, January 9, 2012 @ 4:44 pm
Jim,
1- Cranking compression should be 150 P.S.I. (with the throttle open)
2- Sorry, we are no longer selling motor mounts.
Tom
By David Garner, January 2, 2012 @ 7:51 am
Tom,I have been approached to upgrade the motor in a 34 Chevy sedan,do you recomend building the original engine,or going to a later full oil pressure engine and do you supply any adapters that may be needed
?
By Tom, January 2, 2012 @ 8:09 pm
David,
I am not very familiar with the 1934 six cylinder engine except that it had only 3 main bearings and I would expect it to not be durable on todays highways. Also, the axle ratio makes the engine run too fast, and the brakes are inadequate. Think about it – it needs to be well coordinated package.
Tom
By George, December 29, 2011 @ 10:02 pm
I have a 1958 3600 4×4; It had a 235 with 4 spd in it. Can a 235 from a 1962 Belair be installed as a replacement in this truck?
By Tom, December 30, 2011 @ 2:51 pm
George,
Yes, these two engines are interchangeable.
Tom
By rick elliott, December 28, 2011 @ 5:12 pm
i have a 1980 chevy 250 6,and a 350 turbo trans,will the chevy 350 flex plate and starter,work on the chevy 250.thanks
By Tom, December 30, 2011 @ 2:58 pm
Rick,
Yes.
Tom
By Trent, December 18, 2011 @ 2:10 pm
I have a 48 Chevy 3/4 ton that has the stock rear end. I would like to put in a rebuilt 292 that I have and maybe a 5 speed, is the rear end going to be ok for the Hwy. I have know idea of the gear. How do I make all this happen.
By Tom, December 20, 2011 @ 1:23 am
Trent,
Your 3/4 ton rear axle has a 4.57 ratio which will limit highway peed to about 45 mph. You need a T-5 overdrive trans with a .63 overdrive ratio for afinal drive of (4.57 x .63) 2.88. This will allow easy cruising at 65 mph.
We build these transmissions as parts become available. Call to discuss (586-739-9601)
Tom
By Jeremy C, December 14, 2011 @ 4:05 pm
hi, i have two single barrel rochester carburetors, one is manual choke and the other one is automatic. these two will be going on a fenton or offenhauser double intake that will be on a 235 stovebolt. i need them rebuilt but there are no tags on them anymore. the only thing i know about them is they came off a 56 chevy car and a 57 chevy truck. the other information i have gathered from carb rebuilders is that the manual choke carbs came off a truck and automatic ones came of the cars. is this information correct?
also since this set up will be on a street rod how can i make my automatic choke be disabled where it wont function but allow the carb to continue working like it should?
By Tom, December 16, 2011 @ 4:13 pm
Jeremy,
I do not have any rebuilders that I can recommend but virtually all customers we talk to are not happy with their Rochester carbs.
We can supply our NEW (not rebuilt) Carter Weber’s ($180.00 per pair) and all associated parts for your 235.
They will work perfectly and will NOT leak!
Tom
By RatTrap, December 19, 2011 @ 10:52 pm
Tom-
Not quite sure how to post a question in the correct area.
I am looking for pricing and availability on an exhaust manifold or headers
for a 1969 (I think a Camaro) 250 ci I6. I have a 1950 RatRod Chevy Pickup
mounted on a S-10 frame.
Please let me know if you need additional information from me.
By Tom, December 30, 2011 @ 2:43 pm
RatTrap
Headers are $277.00 and a heat plate is $30.00 + shipping.
Both are available, place your order on line or call after Jan 1st.
Tom
By Michael H., December 10, 2011 @ 3:29 pm
Hello Steve,
I have a ’66 C-20 with the original L6 and 4 speed manual. After choosing to rebuild the stock engine for more power and even forced induction I tore it down to the bare block. That’s when I noticed a small (and common) crack on the rear passenger side head bolt going through the thin wall to the coolant port at the back. The question is, can the block be repaired/reworked to handle that kind of power or does it need to be replaced?
By Tom, December 20, 2011 @ 1:17 am
Michael,
I would recommend replacing the block ( I have one for $100.00). I have a son named Steve and so I’m use to answering to Steve too.
Tom
By Ernie Bazen, November 23, 2011 @ 3:37 pm
Tom,
I recently purchased a 1946 Chevy pickup 1/2 ton. I found a Chevy 230 engine with a powerglide in excellent condition. Will the 230 engine be a direct bolt-in? Also, what gear ratio should I use for the rear axle? I found an S-10 rear axle that I thought about using. I would like to drive in highway traffic up to 65 mph without causing mechanical failure.
Thanks,
Ernie
By Tom, November 28, 2011 @ 3:18 pm
Ernie,
The 230 is completely unrelated to the original 216, so nothing “bolts up” or is transferable.
A complete driveline conversion using a S-10 V6 5 speed overdrive transmission, makes a nice set up.
The powerglide would NOT be a good choice because it doesn’t have an overdrive or enough gears.
Tom
By David Louis, November 22, 2011 @ 8:21 pm
I am shopping for a 66 Chevy C60 medium duty truck. I know when I get one, I will want to run it on propane. Since the most common engine is the 292, I wanted to ask you if it is a good candidate for propane conversion, or should I look for a V8?
By Tom, November 28, 2011 @ 3:31 pm
David,
Probably a 350 V8 with factory hardened valve seats, a four barrel carb, dual exhaust and an overdrive transmission would make the best choice in today’s world.
Tom
By Bill L, November 14, 2011 @ 11:56 am
I have 200cc Ford inline 6. Will your 1 – 2 barrel carb adapter and $80 carb work on my engine? Would I need to modify the bolt holes on the carb adapter?
By Tom, November 15, 2011 @ 2:09 pm
Bill,
The carb and adapter will work great but my current versions (Vega) probably will not clear your hood with an air cleaner on.
Call to discuss.
Tom
By marty, November 9, 2011 @ 12:48 pm
Hi Tom, I purchased the Holley Weber Carb , and all the stuff to go with it for my 1970 c10 250 ci .
I finally have it installed, everything went according to your instructions, it is sort of running( very rough )
I obviously need different idle jets or air bleeders or coaching . Do you have any tuning tips or know where I can find jets etc?
By Tom, November 10, 2011 @ 1:57 pm
Marty,
Check for vacuum leak and call to discuss further diagnosis and replacement.
Tom
By brian, November 6, 2011 @ 12:41 pm
hi tom i have a 63 nova wagon and am planning on running a 250 l6 crate motor with a hei and want to use your cast iron headers and offy dual carb set up with the carter webers will i have hood clearance issues. also on the exhaust would a y pipe into one work or would i need to run dual exhaust. do you think this would be a good street set up thanks brian
By Tom, November 7, 2011 @ 2:27 pm
Brian,
Your combination would make a great street set up.
Call to discuss measurements to resolve potential hood clearance questions.
Tom
By tim, November 3, 2011 @ 5:08 pm
okay tom
where to start i’m running a 1977 250 with non inter head the list of problems goes on . first is that , where the manifolds bolt to heads does not seal well becaouse the two manifolds are not even
. second the mating of two manifolds under the carb will not longer hold a gasket . tell me what you think.
thanks tim
By Tom, November 7, 2011 @ 2:19 pm
Tim,
I have a new N.O.S. G.M. manufactured inlet and exhaust manifold assembly for $150.00 + shipping.
Call to order.
Tom
By MAtt, November 2, 2011 @ 10:51 am
I have a 1950 chevy 235ci that I am tring to put a offy dual carb intake on and am looking for the sleeves that go from the head to the maifold. Any ideas on this?
Thanks
Matt
By Tom, November 3, 2011 @ 2:56 pm
Matt,
Yes, we can supply.
Call to order
Tom
By Rob, October 31, 2011 @ 8:43 pm
I have a 250 bored with 307 piston, 2.02 intake valves, 160 exhaust valves, head had been ported and polished, and cc on the flow bench. A 390 carb, headers 2.5 exhaust, Hei dist.a racing cam,M21 tranny in a 70 Nova.
What can I do for more fun? Nitrous? Turbo? or supercharged? and should I change to a different tranny. Thanks for any help.
By Tom, November 1, 2011 @ 2:07 pm
Rob,
You should definitely add “LUMP PORTS” to your cylinder head.
Also I would use a V8 T-5 5 speed and 4.10 Axle ratio.
Tom
By Rob, November 3, 2011 @ 6:01 am
Would roller rockers work if so which ones. and where can i get the lump ports?
By Tom, November 3, 2011 @ 3:02 pm
Rob,
Roller Rockers would NOT provide any measureable benefit unless you have really heavy valve springs.
There are several sources for lump ports. We can supply.
Tom
By Dewey, October 27, 2011 @ 4:13 pm
Tom
I reently purchased a 1948 chevy fleertmaster. It is in fair shape and I did drive it home which was about a 3 hour drive. It is all original. The starter went out. So I purchased a new one and put it in. It seems the fly wheel needs to be just in the right place or the starter grinds. Can I adjust some thing or do I need a new fly wheel?
By Juan, October 27, 2011 @ 9:20 am
I am interested in buying the H-W carb, 1bbl to 2 bbl adapter, and linkage to use in a 1979 Chevy Caprice with a 250 engine. Would this combination fit, or would I have clearance problems? Thanks.
By Tom, October 27, 2011 @ 3:33 pm
Juan,
At 250 cubic inches, in a large vehicle, I don’t think the engine has enough performance potential to invest money in upgrades. Also there WILL be hood clearance issues.
Tom
By Jim McKernan, October 24, 2011 @ 9:23 am
Tom,
We have a ’39 Chev Master85 2-dr. with ’52 235 engine that has noisy lifters(hydraulic). Can I rebuild with seals or must I replace?
Do you sell lifters that would fit this engine? We just put new rings and reseated valves. Runs great exc. for lifter clatter.
Also, if we want a 5-speed for highway speeds, I have a ’72 1/2 ton P.U. rear w/3.73 gears(open dr.shaft). Would it be an easy conversion to replace original trans/rear end connected to ’52 engine?
Thanks,
Jim
By Tom, October 28, 2011 @ 3:07 pm
Jim,
Your lifters are getting air in them from a bad oil pump. Call to discuss.
I think the truck rear is too wide.
Tom
By Rick Flahart, October 23, 2011 @ 5:46 pm
I have a 51 chevy 3100 pickup and a inline 6 out of a 66 C10. Can I put that engine in my 51 and what is involved?
thanks
Rick
By Tom, October 24, 2011 @ 1:58 pm
Rick,
Yes, we have a motor mount kit ($150.00 + shipping) but the 250 is totally different (and longer) than your original 216.
You also need to change the rear axle and driveshaft.
Tom
By Wes, October 16, 2011 @ 5:06 pm
Can you give me information on a 250 head; numbers:
3827763
GM5
B133
763
Thanks in advance!
By Tom, October 19, 2011 @ 3:05 pm
Wes,
Cylinder head # 3827763 was used from 1966 – 1976 on 250 cu in engines.
Tom
By chad holvig, October 13, 2011 @ 4:58 pm
hello i have a 1959 gmc 3/4 ton pickup with the inline 270 6cyl. My problem is the rear main seal i’ve installed two new rope seals sence the complete restore of the truck only have 300 miles on it keeps leaking is there a rear main seal convertion for a two piece rubber seal instead of the rope seal any help would be great.
thanks chad..
By Tom, October 28, 2011 @ 3:17 pm
Chad,
You need to grind the crank and install an original asbestos rope seal.
Tom
By OMAR ESPARZA, October 7, 2011 @ 10:08 am
Tom, I recently bought and adaptor plate for my 235 on my 53 cheby,I replaced the original powerglide with a 200 trans. But now im stuck on the drive shaft and differential. Should I change the differential to an open drive like a nova or montecarlo along with the drive shaft or how do i keep my original one?? Thanks
By Tom, October 27, 2011 @ 3:51 pm
Omar,
All modern transmissions require an “OPEN” driveline.
I recommend a 1983 – 1988 S-10 4WD.
Hope you used a 200 4R trans which works well with a 3.73 ratio axle.
Tom
By Dan, October 5, 2011 @ 2:17 pm
Tom,
Was wondering if you could suggest where to get and what I will need to complete my install. I have the 235 with a 700R installed. I had no problems with the adapter plate and rear nose mount. My truck is a 1955 First Series with the front engine mount. I know you said I would need somethig to prevent twist. I am not clear on that. What kind of mount and where would it attach? Thank you, Dan.
By travelordon, October 3, 2011 @ 8:08 pm
Want to update my 41 chev coupe with a 261. Ca this go well and have you all required parts?
By Tom, October 27, 2011 @ 3:41 pm
The ease of installation will depend on the model year of the 261 (1954 is the easiest) What year 261 do you have?
Tom
By Rob M, September 29, 2011 @ 1:39 pm
Tom,
Are going to be at Hershey this year?
By Tom, September 29, 2011 @ 4:03 pm
Yes, I will be in the Orange field …..OBJ 15-20.
By mike, September 29, 2011 @ 1:15 am
tom;
Im have a 235 chevy out of a 1954 belair. I really want to do it as good as i can afford. exhaust/intake manifolds,2 2bl carbs, elect ign. aircleaners ,fastners basically everything i can buy from your website. basically im asking you to make my shopping list to include to include everything from adapters to heat shields…but i for sure want the 2 2bl carb set up. also send me a price on your cams…
By Tom, September 29, 2011 @ 12:39 pm
Mike,
Our “BULLDOG” cam is $120.00 + $99.00 for lifters + your core.
You will need an OFFY intake, Williams headers. heat plat. spacer. two Carter Weber carbs, two carb adapters, two air cleaners, linkage, MINI HEI, spark plugs.
You may also choose Ceramic Coating for the headers $125.00 and Polished the air cleaners look great.
Tom
By Dan, September 17, 2011 @ 6:30 pm
Tom,
I have a 1955 First Series with a 235 and a hydromatic trans. I have a TH350 that was just rebuilt. I know you recomend a 200 or 700 but I have a 350 can you tell me the advantages and disadvantages if I use the TH350. I already have you dual Weber carbs, Fenton exhaust and HEI. Let me know.
Dan
By Tom, September 19, 2011 @ 1:33 pm
Dan,
The THM 350 has the following DISADVANTAGES compared to a 200 4R or 700 R4:
1- 10 – 20% less torque off the line
2- 30 – 33% more RPM on the highway
3- Torque convertor slips on the highway
4- Poor fuel economy
5- Noisy exhaust on the highway
6- More engine wear due to higher RPM
All vehicles have had an overdrive transmission, either automatic or manual, since 1984 for these reasons.
Tom
By David, September 23, 2011 @ 1:10 pm
Tom,
I finally bought my truck. I have wanted one since I started driving. I bought a 1955 First Series with a 235 w/ a 3 speed manual w/ overdrive. I drove it home about 50 miles. I was afraid to take it on the hwy but I put it in overdrive & cruised home. I heald my head up high as I passed a little old lady. Every one else passed me. I have written you before & you suggested that I put a 200 R4 automatic transmission. Can you tell me how much of a difference the 4 speed Automatic will be over my 3 speed manual since they both have an overdrive?
David
By Tom, September 23, 2011 @ 10:37 pm
David,
The highway performance will be the same but having the convience of an automatic is a personal choice type decision.
Tom
By wayned, September 17, 2011 @ 2:51 am
Tom I have a 1951 fleetline sedan with a single rochester carb I was wondering how much peformance gain I could expect installing your dual carb setup with the two carters and offy intake, and also since I am doing this in stages I would be using the stock exhaust manifold what parts do I need, and also the engine is a 235 with a powerglide
By Tom, September 17, 2011 @ 10:23 pm
The dual carb set-up will add about 20 H.P. at the top end.
Save your money until you get rid of the powerglide.
Tom
By wayned, September 20, 2011 @ 1:43 am
I am assuming then that the powerglide is robbing some horsepower and torque” what would be a better solution a 700R4? Wouldn’t this be more costly? what parts, adapters etc would I need? and what kind of gain would I get just installing transmission and not the dual carburetor set up,being that i cannot afford doing both at once, If I had to sell the car, the powerglide retains the originality, not to mention, that the dual carb setup is an eye catcher , however I think I would like the most performance dollar for dollar without sacrificing some originality if doing this in stages it sounds like just a transmission change is more beneficial for everyday driving and performance. what do you think?
By David Olivo, September 16, 2011 @ 1:16 pm
Tom,
I have a 52 Chevy with a 235. I want ot update and found an engine with the casting # 3837004. That is all the info I have.
Thanks, Dave
By Tom, September 16, 2011 @ 1:56 pm
David,
3837004 is 1955 – 1957 235.
Tom
By Steve Carey, September 16, 2011 @ 9:42 am
Tom:
I have a 1968 Camaro with a 250 engine. It has an old Clifford 4-barrel manifold that is missing the heat plate. There is a spot under the carburetor for this plate, but I do not see the correct heat plate in your catalog. Do you make a heat plate that would fit this manifold? I spoke with Larry at Clifford Performance, and he said the plate is no longer available through them. I have some measurements for the plate. Could you make me one if I send a sketch?
Thanks for all the technical information on this site. It is helping me correct a number of issues with this setup. I have had poor throttle response since installing this manifold.
Steve
By Cory, September 16, 2011 @ 12:59 am
Do you have any experience with propane conversions on an I6? Thinking of trying it on my 66 C-10 w/292 Thanks
By Tom, September 16, 2011 @ 1:59 pm
I do not have any personal experience but it should work great, if you can tolerate the 10% LOSS in power.
Tom
By james singleton, September 7, 2011 @ 5:57 pm
Tom, Do you have a recommendation(s) for ‘sealing’ the ‘heat plate’ to the bottom of the stock intake manifold on my 67′ Chevelle (230cid engine)?? Such as either (1) making a gasket from gasket material or (2) using form-a-gasket ?? Do you sell a gasket for the heat plate?? Thanks, Jim
By Tom, September 7, 2011 @ 10:24 pm
Jim,
I use the gray silicone RTV sealant but a “paper” gasket with a light coat of the RTV would actually be the best.
Tom
By james singleton, September 8, 2011 @ 2:06 pm
Tom, Thanks for both of your replies/answers to my two questions. The one question concerning whether I could use the ‘temp sensor’ – outlet coming out of the head (on the driver’s side of the head), and also for answering what recommendation(s) you had for sealing the ‘heat plate’ onto the bottom of my stock intake manifold. I appreciate your quick responses/replies. Thanks, Jim
By matt guido, September 4, 2011 @ 5:10 am
hi tom i have a 52 deluxe car with a 216 and was looking for a intake manifold that will bolt right up and was trying to get a little more from her. I know i have the smaller carb bolt pattern. do you have or know of any manifolds that will fit her and maybe carb suggestion thanks very much
By Tom, September 12, 2011 @ 2:07 pm
Our Holly Weber conversion will work great.
Tom
By james s., September 3, 2011 @ 12:44 am
Tom, I bought your ‘dual exhaust’ and ‘heat plate’ back a few months ago, for my 67′Chevelle (230cid). I have a question petaining to the ‘heat plate’. I know that you show in your drawing a water hose/line coming going from the water pump to the heat plate, and also a hose/line running from the heat plate to the heater core hose. Here is my question: On my 230engine there is a ‘temperature sensor’ that comes out of the engine ‘head’; could I install a pipe “T” in the head so that I could install a shorter hose/line to the heat plate, and at the same time still have my ‘temp sensor’ hooked-up to the tee???? Thanks, Jim
By Tom, September 6, 2011 @ 1:54 pm
Jim,
Yes, you could do it that way and the other hose must return to the water pump.
Tom
By David Lee 1974 Nova, August 31, 2011 @ 6:36 pm
Question i am building my 250 adn was looking into heads, i know i need to do a lot of head work so my question is:if i am running 9:5 to 1 compression in a 194 head with smaller chambers, if i run 9:5 to 1 compression in my original head with a bigger chamber am i getting more power from a bigger cc head at 9:5 to 1 or is the 194 head at 9:5 to 1 going to get me more power. I am running a 4bbl carb on it right now.
By Tom, September 5, 2011 @ 3:11 pm
David,
For most applications, the 250 head is a better choice because the bigger chamber results in better breathing. The stock 194 head chamber is so close to the valves that it restricts breathing (and power).
Tom
By Anthony, August 27, 2011 @ 6:58 pm
hello, i have a 1996 chevy s10 2.2 with a 5 speed tans i was thinking of throwing in a auto trans from a truck the same year will the auto work with my manual rear end?
By Tom, August 28, 2011 @ 7:29 am
Anthony,
Sorry, I do not advise relative to newer computer controlled vehicles.
Tom
By wil johnson, August 26, 2011 @ 11:21 am
tom; the electronic ignition system and verbal assistance
that i received from you this spring greatly improved the
the running of the 235 engine in my 1950 chev truck.
plugs are burning very clrean.
thanks, wil.
By Pat Fallon, August 26, 2011 @ 10:41 am
Tom, I am the orginal owner and operator of a 1968 Camero with the 235 6 cyl, single barrel Rochestor carb. The engine now has just shy of 400,000 miles, but have been well cared for, with overhauls to bring everything back into standards. Due to changes in the fuel in the previous fifteen to twenty years, no longer using leaded fuels, I find performance much less than I used to get from my engine. Starting is more difficult and the higher top end speeds no longer available. I was considering going to a dual carburator manifold, using two single barrel carburators, instead of the single barrel now in use. Will this give me any better performance or what should I be looking to do to improve starting and top end performance?
Pat
By Tom, September 12, 2011 @ 1:55 pm
Pat,
I would recommend a small 4 BBL and dual exhaust.
Tom
By john deex, August 24, 2011 @ 4:38 pm
hi
1960 chev 235 p30 (calif. body type/model=HSCR) manual 3 speed. would like to convert to auto transmission. can’t seem to find any guidance on how to make this happen. converted to rv in the 70s, sat last 12 years in someone yard and i since restored and updated inside – now body/paint. considering engine swap i.e. no oil filter/pump and noise. suggestions? thanks
By Marvin Wm. Norton, August 23, 2011 @ 11:47 am
I talked with last week. You gave me a name of Paul Curtis, that has transmision adaptor for the Plymouth flathead 6, to the T-5 transmission. Have tried and have not been able to concat him. Do you have a E-Mail address or phone number to concat him?
Thank You
Marvin Norton
By Tom, August 23, 2011 @ 2:07 pm
Marvin,
The phone number I have is 586-596-1473.
If that doesn’t work, call me.
Tom
By oscar, August 19, 2011 @ 2:14 am
hey tom
I have a 53 chevy bel air powerglide im putting a 235 from a 59.the original brakets dont line up with the new motor do u have something for this problem. thanks
By Tom, August 19, 2011 @ 1:38 pm
Oscar,
Yes, we can modify your 53 engine brackets to fit the 59 235 bolt pattern ($75.00)
Call to discuss details.
Tom
By Frank, August 17, 2011 @ 9:02 am
Hi.
do you ship the stove bolt cast iron headers for the chevy 250 to Australia ? The postal/zip code is 3004
If so, what would the shipping cost be ?
They are for a 250 chevy in a 70 El Camino running an Offy intake and a Holley 4 barrel.
Thanks,
Frank.
By Tom, August 17, 2011 @ 2:25 pm
Frank,
Yes, We can ship the headers to Australia.
You will also need a heat plate ($30.00) for your Offy Intake.
Shipping by U.S. Priority Mail (6 – 10 Days) will be approximately $160.00
Tom
By Frank, August 18, 2011 @ 9:35 am
Thanks Tom.
I thought it would be expensive as i suppose the are heavy. Is it still possible to ship surface mail ? I am no hurry to get the parts.
Regards,
Frank.
By kerchog, August 15, 2011 @ 7:13 pm
tom !!!!!!! great site . just got a 1965 3/4 4 wheel 292 chevy pickup heres my tale .engine has been tuned up idles great 125 each cylinder shifts well .but as i go down rd. from acold start i get into 4th make abouy 2 miles then sputter roll stall .wont start wait 15 min. off i go this time same thing but half the distance before problem .wait 15 min same thing ,.only distance before sputter roll stall is halved yet again?? carb was cleaned no change .this truck prior to my purchase had sat for awhile .this one has my limited abilities stumped please help thanks kerchog
By Tom, August 17, 2011 @ 2:19 pm
Sorry, I can’t diagnose by E-Mail.
Tom
By kerchog, August 14, 2011 @ 5:33 pm
does anyone know paint code for 60/s era dak green thanks.
By Tom, August 26, 2011 @ 2:28 pm
Check with Jim Carter at 800-872-1913.
Tom
By Chris, August 11, 2011 @ 11:27 pm
Hey there, just wondering if you sell a mount conversion? kit for 1950 chevy short box to go from the original 235 to put a 292 in
By Tom, August 12, 2011 @ 2:18 pm
Chris,
Yes, we have a kit $140.00 + $10.95 shipping.
Tom
By Mike Slack, August 10, 2011 @ 11:22 am
Hi Tom,
I purchased a Holley 5200 carb from you back in 2008 and am just now installing it in a 67 Ford Mustang w/200 ci six. You recommended a specific set of jets (two I think) be installed but I did not receive them with the carb, can you please let me know what sizes they are and were they’re supposed to go?
Thanks!
Mike
By Tom, August 10, 2011 @ 1:52 pm
Mike,
No, we do not normally suggest any jet change.
Tom
By David in TX, August 9, 2011 @ 9:52 am
Hi Tom,
I am pulling the 235 out of the frame so I can take a good look at it. I found a small copper line that is in line with a tee going to the top of the oil canister. It runs to the passenger side and looks like it goes into the oil channel just below the valve cover. The engine numbers show a 58 block and head, it has been completely rebuilt(by a local machine shop). So what is it and should it be left there or removed?
Thanks
David in TX.
By Tom, August 26, 2011 @ 2:26 pm
David,
This was a “field fix” for improved rocker oiling.
If the passages are clean, it is not necessary.
Tom
By Jerry D, August 6, 2011 @ 6:40 am
Tom
I have a 1950 Desoto with 236 Flathead and would like to add performance, first is this a good engine for this? if so do you have headers, intake, etc for this engine?
By Tom, August 8, 2011 @ 2:36 pm
Jerry,
This is a durable engine but there were never many “SPEED” parts made in the 1950′s and none made now.
We do make some custom parts for this engine however.
There was a larger (265 Cu. In.) version of this engine used in the 1953 and 1954 Chryslers.
Call to discuss,
Tom
By Cole, August 5, 2011 @ 8:34 pm
Hi tom,
I messaged you earlier about a rear and trans for a beefed up 6 but realized that I have a 216 motor, which from reading online isint the best motor to beef up due to a bad oiling system so I was wondering what your suggestion be for another 6 that would work with the rear and s10 trans you suggested, and if you might know where I could buy the newer motor you would suggest.
thanks Cole
By Frank T, July 30, 2011 @ 2:08 pm
Hi, I have a 65 GMC panel truck with a 250 inline 6 and the”three on the tree”. I was looking into picking up an offy 2×1 intake and using the pair of carbs you sell on the site. I would also like to use a set of the stovebolt split headers. My question is. Will this set up work well for daily driving and some highway use? Also, what accesories will I need to make this set up work and what mods, if any, will I need to do for clearance?
By Tom, August 3, 2011 @ 5:09 pm
Frank,
The set-up you describe will work well for your application. You will need 2 carbs; 2 air cleaners; 2 adapters and linkage. Also you will need to connect the linkage to yor vehicle linkage.
Tom
By John Keane, July 26, 2011 @ 6:03 pm
Dear Sir,
I have a 1951 Chevy P/U 3100 with a 1961 235 recently rebuilt. It has a 4 speed transmission on the floor. I would like to convert to an automatic transmission. Can you advise hardware needed and cost to acquire said hardware. Any advise would be appreciated. It has been my wife’s truck, but I would like to drive and only have one arm which makes it illegal to drive. I’ll need to look at power steering alson I think and converting to 12volt system.
Thanks.
John Keane
Lompoc, Ca
By Tom, July 27, 2011 @ 2:28 pm
John,
You will need our transmission adapter, a shifter, a trans cooler and an “OPEN” driveline and new driveshaft.
For adding power steering, contact Buffalo @ 360-652-7684. 25625 Dahl Road, Arlington, WA, 98223
Tom
By colin, August 1, 2011 @ 2:41 am
hi Tom I have a 194 motor in my 65 chevelle and I am told your headers,intake manifolds are the best to get, but I live in Canada ONT and you do not ship to here. is there some were I can still get stovebolt parts
By Tom, August 3, 2011 @ 7:30 am
Colin,
Yes, we can ship to Canada (via U.S. Priority Mail). No problem.
Tom
By BARRY RADCLIFFE, July 24, 2011 @ 1:30 pm
TOM,
I HAVE A VERY NICE 52 BEL AIR HARDTOP. I WOULD LIKE TO PEP IT UP SOME. AM NOT INTERESTED IN V-8 BUT THOUGHT YOU MIGHT SUGGEST A SIX THAT I CAN MAKE INTO A GOOD HIGHWAY CRUISER AND ALSO KICK UP A LITTLE SAND IF THE NEED SHOULD ARISE. THANX TOM
BARRY RADCLIFFE
By Tom, July 25, 2011 @ 2:28 pm
Barry,
Is your car a powerglide?
Do you want a stick or an automatic?
What is your budget?
Are you willing to change the rear axle and transmission?
Tom
By Tom, August 8, 2011 @ 2:31 pm
Barry,
A 1954 235 or 1954 (Truck) 261 would make an excellent up grade to your 216.
Also the driveline will provide equal if not more improvement than the engine.
Do you now have a stick shift 3 speed or Powerglide?
Do you prefer a 5 speed overdrive stick or a 4 speed automatic overdrive.
Tom
By Dave, July 20, 2011 @ 11:28 pm
Will the starter used on my 235 with cast iron powerglide work with conversion kit to install 700r4 or will i need a new starter?
By Tom, July 21, 2011 @ 7:35 pm
You definately will require a different starter. (Chevy V8 type ..$60.00)
By Shane, July 19, 2011 @ 12:33 am
I have a Canadian Fargo truck With a 265 flathead 6 cyl (25” long head) will the header that you sell fit this truck? Thanks Shane
By Tom, July 19, 2011 @ 2:18 pm
Shane,
We do make a fabricated stainless steel header for the 25″ LONG BLOCK engine.
Tom
By ALEX, July 16, 2011 @ 12:02 am
I need a harmonic balancer for a 1962 235 truck. I want to know if you have one for sale.
By Mike, July 15, 2011 @ 9:18 am
Hello Tom
I have a C10 with 292, 4speed and 3.73 rear. I would like to replace the trans with a TH700r4 and the carburetor w/Holley 600 cfm and kick down. Is this a good combination. Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks for your help.
Mike
By Tom, July 15, 2011 @ 12:05 pm
Mike,
This will make an excellent combination, although the 600 CFM carb is more than you need.
Make sure you water heat the inlet manifold and do not use tubular headers due to poor quality which will result in chronic gaskets leaks.
Tom
By Cole, July 14, 2011 @ 11:22 pm
I have a 1952 Chevy pickup with a 216 motor, i’m looking to beef up the 216, what is your suggestion for transmission, drive shaft, and rear end?
By Tom, July 15, 2011 @ 12:12 pm
Cole,
Use a T-5 five speed from a 1983 – 1987 S-10 (With a V6 engine ONLY!) combined with an axle from a 1955 – 1962 1/2 Ton or 1963 – 1967 1/2 Ton (6 Lug).
Tom
By bill bradley, June 29, 2011 @ 6:46 pm
hi tom, we discussed routing for the hot water for the intake, i have the therm housing adapter ordered . i was looking at the left side of the block near the pan rail and there is a petcock for draining the block, my question is could i run the hot water return in that spot instead of going to the other side of the eng to the heater ?
thanks
bill
By Tom, June 29, 2011 @ 9:18 pm
No, the water needs to flow from high pressure (Thermostat housing) to low pressure (heater return) without reducing flow through the head.
By tobin, June 16, 2011 @ 8:12 am
do you carry the offey valve cover for my 261? I’ve seen the side plate but no v-cover. thank-you.
By Tom, June 25, 2011 @ 12:11 am
No we don’t.
By Jesse P., June 10, 2011 @ 11:36 pm
Hello, I have an Inline 250 Chevy In my 27″ carvers bay lobster boat. With the ancient barr marine wet exhaust mainifold. I was curious as to if you know of a place to get a riser elbow cheap for the end opposite to the hose fittings. Or if one would be able to rig an elbow welded to a piece of steel that would bolt on the end.
Thank Ya.
By Tom, June 25, 2011 @ 12:15 am
Sorry can’t help
By MKS, May 25, 2011 @ 11:33 am
getting ready to purchase this item SKU 08-9500-1 and the question that I have is the rest of the linkage. The linkage from the gas pedal to the carb linkage. Do I use stock or do I purchase after market. Thank you!
By Tom, May 25, 2011 @ 2:24 pm
The answer depends on your vehicle / engine combination.
Tom
By Novanoob, May 16, 2011 @ 8:04 pm
I have a 70 Nova 250 inline 6 with a 1 barrel Rochester manual choke. I was looking to upgrade to a 2 barrel. What would be recomended for 2 to barrel setup.
Thanks
By Tom, May 17, 2011 @ 1:23 pm
Our Holley Weber would make a nice upgrade for your 1970 Nova but hood clearance may be an issue.
“Clay Check” the total distance from the manifold to the hood and let me know or call to discuss.
Tom
By Bud, May 3, 2011 @ 11:53 pm
I am looking forward to ordering parts from you for my 292 in my 1950 Chevy five window, I have a question for you though. How can I tell if my motor is a early 292 or a late one? I am pretty sure its early but want to be sure. I want to put your dual carb set up with your headers on it. But I am also wanting to freshen up the motor so I need to figure out if its early or late.
By Tom, May 4, 2011 @ 2:15 pm
Bud,
Give us the casting number from the fuel pump side of the block and we will identify it for you.
All the basic parts are interchangeable throughout the years.
Tom
By KENT ZUMMACK, May 2, 2011 @ 1:32 pm
Hi Tom I am running a chevy 250 six with no heater in the car and I was wondering if I need to run a bypass hose from the pump to the t-stat housing or can I just cap them off. I currently have one capped and the other is for my temp sender. If the car sits and gets cool the thermostat will not open on initial fire up unless i crack the cap then it seems fine and runs right on the t-stat at 195 degrees. Maybe, do I have a bad air lock although I have bled the system and cracked th cap multiple times or is it maybe a faulty t-stat or is it beacuse I do not have a proper bypass hose. Any info would be a great help and thanks again.
By jloera, April 26, 2011 @ 3:06 pm
Hi Tom,
I have another qestion regarding a tramsmission for my 235 gm motor. I have been reading that a t5 s10 80′s model will be a nice set up! Can you give me a range between years i should be looking at? This will also go on my 1952 chevy pickup.
Thanks
By Tom, April 26, 2011 @ 11:14 pm
1983-1987 S-10 with 2.8 L V6 engineonly (.73 overdrive)
By jloera, April 27, 2011 @ 10:55 am
Thanks a lot Tom,
How would I be able to tell what year motor I have. I believe I have a gm 235 1955 model, I was reading online and found this blog that said the year 55 or earlier you will have 4 bolts on the cover on top and later models will have 2 long bolts protruding out of it. Any way here are som # I foud on the engine CON4 A224, 0244877 T54X. Would I need to get a different bellhousing to fit this trany to my engine?
Thanks
By jloera, April 26, 2011 @ 12:46 pm
Hi, I really dont have any experience restoring an engine but i believe I have a 1955 or older 235. i am going to put it into a 52 chevy truck. I believe I am missing a few parts that goes on the engine! Dont know if this model came with an oil filter. wondering if there is a manual for these engines? HELP
Thanks
By Tom, May 5, 2011 @ 1:56 pm
Give us the engine casting number and we will identify what your engine is.
Then you can purchase a factory shop manual which would be the best information source for a rebuild.
Tom
By Ed Hawkins, April 26, 2011 @ 8:46 am
Hi Tom,
I am putting together a 292 inliner engine and have done a lot to it. I have gas pistons + 0.060 in the block. The head has lump ports 0.550 lift springs and was decked 0.030 0.194 intake and 0.160 exhaust valves. A single edelbrock 500 cfm carb. This is going in an early very light truck with a turbo 350 and a 350 rear end gear I presently have a RV cam in it and was wondering if it is defeating the work I did by using this cam? The truck is just street driving.
By Tom, April 26, 2011 @ 11:18 pm
Send me the cam card with specs and then I will comment.
By Clint, April 24, 2011 @ 11:45 pm
I am looking to order a dual carb setup with split header for my 54 Bel Air. Its a 235 blue flame#0707264 F54Y. It needs carbs, header, intake, gasket, linkage and etc…… Do you sell everything to do the job? And what Carbs/intake/header do you suggest?
By Tom, April 26, 2011 @ 11:34 pm
Yes, we normally have all those parts in stock but currently back ordered on Offy manifolds with no delivery date promised.
Sorry
By John, April 22, 2011 @ 2:40 pm
Hi Tom,
I have a Chev 261 block that I bought from you years ago. I have a Clifford 4BBL intake, Clifford tube headers.
I want to install a set of Fentons, but they seem to be hitting the bottom of the intake. There’s a boss that hangs down a bit with a pipe plug for water heat (I’m using the plugs on the side of the intake for that). Can I grind that area flat to the bottom of the water jacket, or should I fabricate 1/4″ or 3/8″ spacers with longer intake alignment rings to move the intake away from the head to gain the clearance I need?
Thanks,
John
By Tom, April 23, 2011 @ 9:06 pm
I carefully ground clearance on one of the Clifford manifolds like you describe. Proceed with caution.
By Rich, April 12, 2011 @ 7:56 pm
Hi , I need some advice on my newly rebuilt 54 235. The builder put hydraulic lifters in it. The engine number is 0487323F54XA. This indicates a 1954 3600 (3/4Ton) made in Flint Michigan (undoubtedly a manual tranny).
I am told that the only blocks that year drilled for hydraulic lifters were passenger cars with automatic transmissions (powerglide).
Several people on the stovebolt page have said don’t even run the motor or I will do damage. The builder says he does this all the time. The motor does not run right (lack of power and surging at high RPMS) but there is no lifter noise. I am bringing it back to the builder on Thursday. I have not talked to the machinist to see if he drilled the block for hydraulics but he said he did everything to make the engine run right and will make it right when I bring it back. I have a 1 year warrantee. Will I regret not having solid lifters put in in 2 years????
Also I am running straight 30 weight oil is that also a problem?
Thanks
Rich
By Tom, April 13, 2011 @ 7:44 am
!. What is the block CASTING number?
2. Is it a big journal cam or small journal?
3. What type camshaft was the engine built with? (Hydraulic or Mechanical)
4. Was the block “drilled” for hydraulic?
5. Hydraulic lifters on a mechanical cam will run poorly especially at idle.
By Rich, April 12, 2011 @ 7:49 pm
I need some advice on my 1954 235 I just had rebuilt. The builder put hydraulic lifters in it.
The engine number is 0487323F54XA. This indicates a 1954 3600 (3/4Ton) made in Flint Michigan (undoubtedly a manual tranny). I am told that the only blocks that year drilled for hydraulic lifters were passenger cars with automatic transmissions (powerglide).
Several people on the stovebolt page have said don’t even run the motor or I will do damage. The builder says he does this all the time. The motor does not run right but there is no lifter noise. I am bringing it back to the builder on Thursday. Should I insist on solid lifters or is this ok? I have not talked to the machinist yet to see if he drilled the block for hydraulic lifters. They said they did everything to make it run right and will make it right when I bring it back. I have a 1 year warrantee…will I be regretting this in 2 yearswhen the engine craps out????
By Tom, June 24, 2011 @ 11:37 pm
Your info is correct! Hydraulic lifters on a solid cam will run but very poorly.
By Jim D, April 12, 2011 @ 10:16 am
Hi:
What products do yoiu offer to outfit a T5 tranny to a 1947 Dodge 1/2 ton PU with an original 230 CI, 4 speed tranny / bellhousing driveline. Looking to retrofit the tranny for all the gear bashing, 45 mph speed reasossns. I have seem your frm’s name come up a number of times in searching the web on this subject. Would be interested in a complete soltion (all parts included) if you have one.
Thanks Much; Keep up the good work
JIm
By Tom, April 13, 2011 @ 10:44 am
Jim,
We have a kit to convert your bell housing to accept the (Chevy S-10 type) T-5 transmission.
By Gary Wallace, April 10, 2011 @ 9:55 pm
Hi Tom,
I am still working on my 1/2ton 1952 Chevy Truck. I have a STD 250ci with a Clifford intake and your cast iron headers. Do you know of an off the shelf exhaust system from Summit or the like that will work with this set up. It seems that everything I have seen is for V8 applications. If I can get something close and modify that would be OK too. Also, your recommendations for exhaust pipe sizes and mufflers for best sound.
Thanks, -GW
By Tom, April 11, 2011 @ 9:50 am
There is no source for our headers in a ’52 pick-up. I recommend 2 1/4″ head pipes and 2″ tail pipes & mufflers of your choice.
Recommendations for exhaust pipe sizes and mufflers are included when headers are purchased from us.
By allenJ, April 9, 2011 @ 10:11 am
Hi Tom!
I read or heard somewhere that the 292 should have the block decked to improve quench area.Is this correct? If so how far would I go?this is a 78 chevy p/u 1/2 ton daily driver.runs ok now,am just gathering info for rebuild. thanks, AllenJ, N.M.
By Tom, April 10, 2011 @ 9:21 pm
The T-5 type S-10 trans will bolt up to your bell housing but you will not
have a speedo cable.
Use a T-5 from a 1983-1987 S-10 with 2.8L V6 engine to get the best ratios
and a speedo cable drive.
By Andy, April 7, 2011 @ 4:04 pm
I want to put a 5 speed trans and rear end from a ’91 s-10 be behind my 235. Do I need an adapter? If so do you sell one.
By Dave, April 1, 2011 @ 7:55 pm
Hi, bought an HEI dist. (6 cyl, 261) from you a couple years back. I don’t have an ignition switch yet and usually disconnect the battery after running; however I left town for a weekend and forgot, leaving the lead to the coil hot. Now, after recharging the battery from 2.5V, the truck won’t start. I’m getting a spark, but it does seam a little weak. I put my commuter car’s battery in parallel just in case and still nothing. Coil resistances read fine. Do you think I damaged my HEI control module?
By Tom, April 4, 2011 @ 12:31 pm
I would think this normally would not be a problem but almost any auto parts store can check it for free.
I can supply another module for $5.00 + $5.20 shipping if you like.
Tom
By bryce, March 29, 2011 @ 12:08 am
hey ive been looking for a carb for my 140 ci its a 2.3L ford 1974 would i use your holley weber progressive?
By Tom, March 29, 2011 @ 2:15 pm
Bryce,
Yes, out Holley Weber’s are exactly from typical 2.3 L Ford applications.
Call to discuss and order.
Tom
By russell christensen, March 25, 2011 @ 11:57 am
I see you have the headers for my 250 dodge I’m looking for the intake of 2 bls, or 4 bls; for my 250 dodge.
By Tom, March 26, 2011 @ 10:46 pm
We could make one for your 251 (25″ block), but do not have them on the shelf at this time.
By Al, March 24, 2011 @ 1:08 pm
What is a good highway RPM for a 261 at 65mph?
By Tom, March 24, 2011 @ 2:11 pm
Allen,
Probably about 2000 – 2200 RPM. It is a trade off between performance and fuel economy.
You will need an overdrive trans to get this. I recommend an S-10 5 speed with a 3.73 axle ratio.
Tom
By Alex, March 21, 2011 @ 12:48 am
I have 235 with casting numbers 3769716, and serial number F0406J0. I can’t find a matching application for it. The head is 3836848. Can you help me out with figuring out if I need to do the trick to the rockers oiling system.
Alex
By Tom, March 22, 2011 @ 3:35 pm
Alex,
Your 3769716 block is for a 1958 – 1962 235 car and truck. The 3836848 is also correct for this application.
You can pinch the rocker supply overflow tube if you want but you need valve stem seals if you do this.
Tom
By wil johnson, March 18, 2011 @ 3:21 pm
tom, in mounting the coil for my hei distributor,
will i be able to use the holes in each corner of
the metal ring that surrounds the coil?
does plug gap still remain at .060 on the
champion plugs? order#250
By Tom, March 21, 2011 @ 12:47 pm
Yes, you could use just the bottom two holes. Yes, spark plug gap should be .060″.
By William, March 1, 2011 @ 8:17 pm
Im working on a 40 something model 235 straight 6 in a ratrod pickup . I need a 9 bolt pressure plate or a flywheel that takes the 6 bolt presure plate . Tis engine has 3 dow pins in the crank . Doesanybody make this stuff ?
By Tom, June 24, 2011 @ 11:59 pm
I can supply a flywheel.
By jennifer crotty, February 27, 2011 @ 5:50 pm
i have a question about sku number 55-1108 i am wondering if these will fit a 1950 fleetline with a 250 motor the motro came off a 1975 chevy
By Tom, March 22, 2011 @ 3:18 pm
Jennifer,
Yes, Our 55-1108 motor Mount Kit will fit a 250 into your 1950 passenger car.
Tom
By Tom B, February 23, 2011 @ 11:33 pm
Hi,
I recently puchased an 3 carb intake “McGurk” like the one in your 39 chev. I was going to install it on a 235 chev in my 39 Chev sedan delivery. Now Im not sure if it even fits a 235 or other application. Is there an easy way to know (any measurement?). Also, will your carbs work on this? There are Rochesters mounted on the intake now. Also, do you sell a linkage set? Any potential problems with clearance in the 39 chev? I am interested in using an automatic trans, and up tp date rear. What do you recommend? Thanks!
By Tom, June 25, 2011 @ 12:01 am
The 235 intake ports a 8 9/16″ center to center. Call to discuss. (586-739-9601)
By SCOTT G, February 19, 2011 @ 5:27 am
HELLO I’M IN THE PROCESS OF BUILDING A 292 MARINE ENGINE AND MY QUESTION IS WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST CAMSHAFT TO GO WITH THIS ENGINE THE ENGINE IS GOING IN A 22′ REINELL CABIN CRUISER AND WAS WANTING SOME THING THAT HAS A NICE LOPY SOUND TO IT THANK YOU MUCH
By Tom, February 28, 2011 @ 2:33 pm
If you are going to upgrade to the factory Marine quadrajet I would recommend our Marine HO Cam.
Tom
By wally logan, February 15, 2011 @ 5:34 pm
Question:
I’m installing a 250 out of a 74 Nova into a 41 Chevy 3/4 T pickup. I’m interested in information on bell housing choice, motor mounts recommended to install a T5 transmission in this vehicle. Thanks, Wally
By Tom, March 22, 2011 @ 3:12 pm
Wally,
We can supply motor mounts for a 1/2 Ton 41 pick up.
Use the 250 bell housing and use the T-5 tail housing for the rear mount.
Tom
By renotunez, February 1, 2011 @ 11:15 pm
Hi Tom,
I just purchased a 1964 Chevy K10 to use for daily driver/street and minor 4x4ing. It has a stock 292 L6, 4 speed floor shift, 33×10.50×15″ stock lift. I would like to add headers, a 2x2bbl or 3x1bbl intake or a 1x4bbl whatever would work best, an RV or Marine cam, all to boost HP/torque to tap it’s potential. Engine has 92000 original miles and runs very well. Is there a benefit to the webers over other multi carb combos. My goal is to focus toward a 50′s/60′s hotrod muti carb engine to boost power and do a classy rat rod type of build on the truck. Just looking to do bolt on perfomance add ons at this time, and when I go to rebuild I will do head work, etc more indepth at that time. Thanks for any help or recommendations you can offer. Great site! Steve
By Tom, February 2, 2011 @ 1:51 pm
The four barrel would be equivalent to the 2×2 Carter Weber set up. Because they are both a “Progressive” design – primaries and secondaries. The triple carb set-up can run well but usually has clearance problems at the rear carb. We have a “Marine” cam that works well for street use.
By Brian, January 30, 2011 @ 12:44 pm
Hello,Just wanted to say I like the new web page and you use to sell t shirts?Do you or are you going too for all of us who want to brag about our six.Thanks have a great day Brian
By chavez, January 24, 2011 @ 10:56 pm
is it possible yo mount a 50 chevy 3 speed trans to a 62 nova 250 engine????
By Tom, January 26, 2011 @ 1:04 pm
Chavez,
It would require the truck transmission to mount to the ’62 Nova bell housing.
Tom
By Atticus, January 14, 2011 @ 9:29 am
I have a 250cu in a 84 chevy 1/2 ton i am looking to rebuild it and i want it to sound mean and have some serious power. I have seen guys drag race with these engines i don`t want something that insane i just want it to be able to hold its own any advice on what parts and what to do. It also has a kinda loud knock coming from deep in the enigine i was told it could be a wrist pin and so i tried pulling spark plug caps and it had no effect on the knock any ideas i thought it would atleast soften the noise.
By Tom, January 15, 2011 @ 1:24 pm
I would recommend the old style head, a four barrel, dual exhaust and a more modern transmission with overdrive.
Tom
By Kasey, January 11, 2011 @ 12:49 am
I am purchessing a ’84 c10 with a 250 inline 6 and have a few questions.
1st) Should the long header’s fit in my truck?
2nd) What would you suggest me doing with intake, seeing as the intake manifold is integrated in the head, should i buy a new head? And if so, what carb set up should i go for, while retaining as much mpg as possible, but giving enough fuel to increase power.
3rd) What choices do i have as far as the valve cover’s go? I see alot of them for the 230′s, and other I6′s but they say specifically not for my application because of the intake manifold.
Thanks for your time
Kasey
By Tom, January 11, 2011 @ 4:51 pm
Kasey,
We do NOT sell any headers for your integral type head, similarly there are no valve covers available.
I would first install a 5 speed overdrive and consider an original style cylinder head with a small four barrel.
Tom
By carlos, January 8, 2011 @ 11:27 am
Hi
Do you ship to France? How much it will cost to ship a dual carburetor intake for Plymouth 218cci?
Regards Carl
By Tom, January 11, 2011 @ 4:14 pm
Carl,
Yes we ship to France. I will E-mail you the shipping cost.
Tom
By Mark Ginn, January 4, 2011 @ 7:51 pm
Hello Tom, I have ordered a set of side covers for a 250 Chevy. I was wondering if you may have a damaged set or maybe a set that is not perfect. Please don’t think I am a cheap scape it is just that I will be powder coating these pieces. The engine will not be a flashey chrome. I am looking for an origiinal nice looking engine that someone may ask if that is what came in a 36 Chevy? By the way the dual truck breathers are perfect for what I was after. If you do not have a problem set, $90 will be OK. Also would like a good set of side cover gaskets. can I contact you after 6PM? let me know. Thanks tom.
By doug Barnhardt, December 29, 2010 @ 6:21 pm
Hello Tom,
Great website. Just bought a 65 Chevy truck w/ a 230 cid 6 cylinder. Arron, the guy I got it from refered me to your website. He had put hedman headers on it and lost the heat to the intake. Gas milage is horrible and the plugs were black after my 9 hour drive home from Iowa. First step is to replace plugs and rebuild the carb. Is there an easy way to heat the intake with headers? It gets 10mpg right now….
By Tom, December 30, 2010 @ 1:17 pm
Doug,
Yes, we have a plate that bolts under the intake manifold that allows water to heat the factory or Offy intake manifold.
Tom
By steve bruzek, May 10, 2011 @ 9:54 pm
Hi Tom,
I also have a 65 Chevy with a 6 cyl. casting # is 3850817 GM 28 (located bewtween dipstick and distributor) Is this a 230?? It has a heat riser on the exhaust manifold but the spring is broken off. How does that go back on?? I bought a new one but cant quite fiquire it out. What are the benifits of replacing it??
Is the 230 considered a stovebolt??
Thanx
By Tom, May 11, 2011 @ 1:33 pm
Steve,
Your 3850817 block was used on both 230 and 250 Cu. In. engines thru 1978.
The heat riser spring tang goes into a split in the end of the shaft.
The spring and butterfly inside are engineered to provide quicker manifold warm-ups and then preventing too much heat in the intake manifold later on.
Tom
By Tim Weimer, December 28, 2010 @ 10:10 pm
Hi Tom, My car is a Chevy 2dr hdtp and am thinking of changing the transmission per our conversations in the past. You recommend a 700r4. Any one? And the rear axle and differential from certain S-10s. What ones? Thanks Tim Weimer
By Tom, December 29, 2010 @ 12:17 pm
Tim,
You would want a 200 4R or 700 R$ without computer control. The axle should be from an S-10 (4 wheel drive) with 3.40 – 4.10 gear ratio.
Tom
By Tom, December 12, 2010 @ 8:40 am
Sorry but it seems like the military has a block on our emails…we do get emails from other military bases though.
By Chuck Monks, December 11, 2010 @ 6:44 pm
We have a 1952 Chevy Deluxe with a 1966 194 six cylinder engine and are looking for motor mount conversion. Do you carry this? Thanks, Chuck
By Tom, December 16, 2010 @ 9:08 am
Chuck,
Yes, we do have a kit to put your 194 into your 1952 passenger car. ($140.00 + $10.95 shipping.)
Tom
By herb r, December 7, 2010 @ 7:24 pm
I have 1955? chev 6 tied to 3 speed tran.– plan to use engine in t bucket –add 350 auto tran.
1.Will engine bolt up ok to trans?
2. Can I use flywheel [auto] from sbc to replace existing on straight 6???
By Tom, December 8, 2010 @ 1:11 pm
Herb,
No, the 235 has a completely different bolt pattern from the THM350 and this is also true for the flexplate.
We do make an adapter kit. ($350.00) Here is a link to it:
http://stoveboltengineco.com/index.php/catalog/store/#ecwid:category=412400&mode=product&product=1396439
Tom
By Nico, November 29, 2010 @ 11:14 pm
Hey there, I am trying to locate some info and a round about value for a intake manifold for an inline chevy 6, I have found a handful of information but nothing on what it may be worth. It is an Edmunds customs 2 by 2 bbl carb setup using Ford 94 carbs. If you could give me some more info on it and perhaps what it may be worth, thanx. Nico
By Tom, December 1, 2010 @ 11:32 pm
Sorry, I do not give estimated values because these type of parts vary so much.
By Deryl Sewell, November 29, 2010 @ 10:41 pm
I have a 64 Chevy short stepside that belonged to my Grandpa. I rebuilt the 230 in 2001, new hardened valves and all. The engine has less than 2500 miles since, but I’m ready to “jazz it up”. Everyone says drop in a V8, but I want a strong six that is dependable. I’m planning on giving the truck to my granddaughter in a few years.
I’ll need to add power steering, power brakes and an automatic. Do you suggest I hop up the 230 or go to a 250 or 292? Will I be able to find brackets for the power stuff? If you suggest keeping the 230, what mods can I make to give it a strong boost yet be a good street driver?
Keep up the great work and I enjoy all your comments and advice.
Thanks
Deryl
By Tom, December 1, 2010 @ 11:34 pm
Deryl,
Call me (586-739-2849)to discuss your project, but your plan definately needs to include overdrive. (700 R4 or 200 4R).
Tom
By Peter, November 26, 2010 @ 8:52 pm
Tom, I’m wondering about your intake heat plates. Are the barbed fittings sized for a 5/8″ heater hose? Do you supply the gasket to seal as well? It’s for my Offy tri-carb manifold on my 261.
Peter
By Tom, December 1, 2010 @ 10:55 am
Peter,
The hose barbs are for 3/8″ hose. Normally we do NOT recommend running the coolant through the heater because some heaters turn off the coolant flow when you turn off the heater. A gasket is not supplied, I recommend using gasket type paper and cut to fit.
Tom
By KENT ZUMMACK, November 25, 2010 @ 10:10 am
I have a 250 six with a 3 x 1 offy intake and was wondering if a guy could run 3 of your carter/weber carbs and if you would have a linkage set up for it, also tuning tips? If this is not possible who provides either base plates or complete rebuilt one barrel carbs for my existing set up. The secondary base plates have poor throttle shafts and I can’t tune the car. What jet size should be run in the primary carb and the secondary carbs.
By Tom, December 1, 2010 @ 10:50 am
Kent,
Yes, our Carter / Weber carbs would work great on your 250.
We can supply linkage also. Clearance to the firewall may be a problem!
What size throttle blades (1-9/16″?) are you using on your secondary carbs?
Tom
By jim, November 24, 2010 @ 11:21 am
how much fuel pressure do the 235 and 292 pumps have and are they interchangeable?
By Tom, December 15, 2010 @ 1:44 pm
Jim,
They should have 5-6 PSI.
I don’t know if they are interchangeable.
Tom
By Tom Elliott, November 23, 2010 @ 12:18 am
I have a chevy 250 inline six; stock manifold, stock exhaust, and stock 1 barrel rochester. Can I run your Stovebolt Cast Iron exhaust headers with the stock manifold? I heard it might require some grinding to fit. Also would I need to have a heat plate, if so which one and what does this do?
Thanks,
Tom
By Victor, November 21, 2010 @ 4:58 pm
Hi there I have a 76 gmc 1/2 ton with 250 Inline-6. just put in a rebuilt electric choke rochester monojet carb. Cant seem to get it running right think the timing is out, I was wondering if you would know what the timing, and rpm should be set at while idiling and things i can do to get good fuel economy? Thank you for your time.
Victor
By Tom, November 22, 2010 @ 1:33 pm
Use a GM 1976 shop manual and an older experienced mechanic to diagnose your problem. Check for vacuum leaks.
By Jason, November 19, 2010 @ 4:27 pm
What is the model of the two Weber carbs?
By Tom, November 20, 2010 @ 10:18 pm
The pair of “Carter Webers” that we recommend for dual carb applications are Weber Model 32DFTA as used on Ford Escorts (1983).
Does this answer your question?
By Tom, December 1, 2010 @ 10:47 am
Jason,
We sell two different Weber carbs:
- For single carb applications – The Weber 32/36
(Rebuilt) (As used on the Ford Pinto and Vega)
- For dual carb applications – The Weber 32 DFT (We refer to them as “Carter / Weber” because Carter manufactured them for Weber)
(NEW) (As used on the Ford Escort)
Tom
By erik, November 17, 2010 @ 9:04 pm
I was wondering if I could use a high tork mini starter for a chevy to put on the adapter kit. Also does anyone know of a site I can get other parts for my 235, (oil pick up, freeze plugs, some hard to find parts)
By Tom, November 18, 2010 @ 8:27 am
I have never evaluated the mini starter so I can’t recommend it. Please email a complete list of what you need for your 235.
By Tom Pitts, November 15, 2010 @ 7:16 pm
Tom
I have installed your HEI ignition on my 66 PU with a 260 I6
I’m having issues with getting the specified plugs.
I presently have AC R44X and they seem to work but possibly not just right
I have tried to get the R44SX and find that it is obsolete. The cross reference is a R43S which is too short.
My local NAPA guys have no suggestions. I have tried several websites for other plugs but have already had to return two sets that were not adequate.—- What do you recommend these days?
Thanks-Tom
By Tom Pitts, November 15, 2010 @ 8:12 pm
250 I6 w plug questions
By Mark Ginn, November 15, 2010 @ 8:02 am
Just a few questions on the offenhauser set-up for the 2 carter/weber carbs I purchased from you a while back for my 250 Chevy. How critical is it for the fuel inlet be facing toward the front of the engine? Not that it matters, but the linkage set-up works better the other way. Also, What size fuel lines do you recamend from the fuel pump to the carbs? A fuel filter will be placed after the fuel pump. Thanks Mark.
By Tom, November 15, 2010 @ 3:50 pm
Mark,
The Carter Weber’s do operate well with linkage toward the drivers side of the vehicle (one vehicle so far)
You should use 5/16″ fuel lines.
Let me know if you try the “INLINE” linkage arrangement.
Tom
By frank bush, November 14, 2010 @ 7:53 am
Hi i have a 69 c-10 with a 250 inline stock with headers it feels like the motor is not getting enough fuel with the stock carb its like i have to almost floor it to go up a steep grade i was wondering if your weber carb with adapter and water heater will make a difference thank you Frank also can i use my stock carb linkage
By Tom, November 14, 2010 @ 11:46 pm
First you need to add our heat plate ($30.00) to your stock intake manifold.
Our Holley Weber Carb is also a nice upgrade but you will need to fabricate your own linkage.
Tom
By Tompa, November 13, 2010 @ 11:32 pm
Im going to put a 56 235 in my 52 chevy. Is it the SKU 55-1108 Mounting Kit that i need for it ?
By Tom, November 14, 2010 @ 11:39 pm
Sorry, the ’56 235 has no provision for side mounts, so we do not have a kit.
By Paul Fink, November 11, 2010 @ 1:47 pm
Tom,
I would like to upgrade a stock 230 to a dual single-bbl carb set-up. I can find the Offy 2×1 manifold on your site, but which heat plate and linkage set would I need? I have two 1bbl Rochesters, so no special carb adapters should be required. Thanks much for your assistance.
-Paul Fink
By Tom, November 12, 2010 @ 8:16 am
Paul,
Just order the parts you want and I will review your order deetails and call you to discuss and get your charge info.
The Rochesters may not be your best choice – I will explain after you order.
Tom
By Paul Fink, November 12, 2010 @ 1:27 pm
Tom,
Sounds good. I submitted the order… I’m not a fan of the 1bbl Rochesters, so I went ahead with the Carter-Webers from the site. Thanks again for your help.
-Paul
By Jim Varano, November 9, 2010 @ 7:13 pm
I would like to put the Fenton Headers on my 54 chevy truck 235 ci motor….But I would like to keep my stock carb…is there a single carb manifold you carry that would work ? and would I have to get a new heater plate?
or is there a better carb I can use that would be a better fit with the headers.
Thanks
Jim
By Tom, November 12, 2010 @ 8:19 am
Jim,
You can use your stock manifold and stock carb or upgrade to our Holley Weber progressive two barrel on your stock manifold.
You will need to add water heat to your stock intake manifold to get good driveability (if you install Fenton headers which do not provide heat to the intake. Call if you would like to discuss. (586-739-9601).
Tom
By Chris Murray, November 9, 2010 @ 1:55 pm
I’m looking for the plastic bushings Chevy/GMC used on the 1970′s vintage 3 speed transmission. These are the bushings that over the ends of the linkage tubes from the column shifter when they are attached to the transmission shift arms. Hurst has a Pit Pak of bushings and clips, but the bushing ID is a bit bigger.
By Tom, December 15, 2010 @ 1:46 pm
Sorry, I can’t help.
Tom
By Tim, November 2, 2010 @ 12:46 pm
I have a 1954 261 that has a lot of miles on it. I would like to send it to a machine shop for a rebuild. I would also like to convert to hydraulic lifters with a more aggressive camshaft. I live in Dallas, Texas. Do you know of a local engine builder that you could send me to? This would save the issues with palletizing and shipping my engine.
Sincerely,
Tim
By Tom, November 2, 2010 @ 1:44 pm
Tim,
The 1954 261 (Truck) engine should NOT have the gallery for hydraulic lifters. Check it out.
I do not know the Dallas area but if you join Inliners International, you could check with Inliners in that area for their advice.
Tom
By Randall, November 1, 2010 @ 10:09 pm
i have a chevy six cylinder (261) and i am trying to install it into a 1953 chevy Belair Coupe. i was told that i will have to change the motor mounts so it would fit. do have a mounting system fort his? or can you provide a solution for what i have to do? thanks
By Tom, November 2, 2010 @ 12:34 pm
Yes, we will need your ’53 Chevy Motor brackets to modify. Call (586-739-9601) to discuss details and payment.
Tom
By Clinton Smith, November 1, 2010 @ 10:51 am
I have a 71 Chevy P/U with a 292 and am on a limited budget — what is the best way to obtain 300 hp? I have headers currently… and the engine is stock.
By Dan, November 1, 2010 @ 1:37 am
Will a clifford manifold designed for the 230 also fit a 235?
By Tom, November 1, 2010 @ 11:28 am
No, sorry they are not even similar.
By Doug Cook, October 29, 2010 @ 8:30 pm
Want to replace the single rochester ,have a 2 barrel adapter ,do you think an early 70;s Pinto 2 barrel will work ,linkage not a problem as I can fab that,or what readily avalible 2 barrel will work. Its on a 64 Nova 230 motor . Thanks
By thomas comerford, October 29, 2010 @ 4:44 pm
the question i have is in regards to the speedo cable. i own a 53 chevy with a 3 speed coloumn shift. i am going to be putting autometer gauges in. i am curious wether the old cable will work or if i have to buy an aftermarket one.
By Tom, October 30, 2010 @ 9:53 pm
Sorry our primary focus is engines. Check with a professional that works with gages.
By Rich Gabbard, October 28, 2010 @ 2:00 pm
We are thinking of putting a 292 on an s-10 frame with some type of automatic tranny, is this possible? What about engine and tranny mounts? We are going to mount a 1948 chevy pickup on the frame. What do you think? Suggestions?
Thanks!
By Tom, December 15, 2010 @ 1:58 pm
Rich,
Sorry, I have not done this conversion.
Tom
By Tom, October 25, 2010 @ 9:25 pm
I would recommend our (new) Carter Weber Progressive two barrels. We have sold over 1000 of these with great success and feedback.
Email your Rochester pictures to: theboss@stoveboltengineco.com
By Doug Waters, October 25, 2010 @ 2:32 pm
Could you tell me where to find a cylinder head for a 1963 Bel Air 4 dr w/238 inline 6?
Thank You Doug
By Doug Waters, October 26, 2010 @ 12:29 pm
I would like one assembled. What is the cost including shipping. Destination is Norco Ca. Thank You
By Zack, October 21, 2010 @ 1:29 pm
Chrysler 251 and 265 flathead engines are popular engines used in antique tractor pulling tractors. The updraft manifolds with upturned exhaust are really tough to find though. Industrial engines usually had this setup. I see you offer an exhaust manifold that fits these engines but looks like it only bolts on one way. Does anyone make an aftermarket updraft manifold that will work on a tractor? I’ve also seen industrial engines with reversible manifolds. Do you know if that style is available anywhere?
Thanks,
Zack
By Tom, October 22, 2010 @ 2:22 pm
Zack,
We have made our headers upside down for the tractor pull application. Also why not just turn the pass car inlet upside down?
We have several Zenith Up draft carbs that are bigger if you are interested. Call me.
Tom
By Steve Fitzgerald, October 18, 2010 @ 11:22 pm
Help1 I have a 47 Chevy pick up with a 6 cyl engine. I can not find the engine number in any of the listings on the various web sights including the inliners sight. The number is 350I679. I thought I had a 216ci and bought a replacement water pump. The bolt pattern was different, so now I don’t know what I have. Not even sure it is a Chevy engine. Thanks………….Steve
By Tom, October 19, 2010 @ 3:48 pm
Send a picture of the distributor side of the engine, and I will help identify it.
By scott olisar, October 18, 2010 @ 8:30 pm
I have a 1958 235 and want to know if your adaptor is necessary to mount a turbo 350?
By Tom, October 19, 2010 @ 3:56 pm
Yes, an adapter will be required to mount a turbo 350. We would actually recommend a 200 4R or 700R4 which would use the same adapter.
By Greg, October 15, 2010 @ 7:43 pm
Tom, have you ever tried or messed around with fuel injecting any of these engines? I have a 57 235 in a 1941 chevy sedan backed by a 5 speed. I have been wondering about the possibility of doing this with direct port injection or a type of throttle body. My father has run his 235 coast to coast from Ohio to Cali and Florida up into the New England states in his 51 Fleetline chev. We built it about 15 years ago and it is still going strong today!
I am also looking for a cam and lifters for this engine. What would be a suggestion for this. I would like to give the car a little thump, but still be able tto drive it on the street.
Greg
By Tom, October 17, 2010 @ 7:03 pm
If you want to make a fuel injection for your 235, I would do a “throttle body” type. Port injection does not work well on siamesed port engines.
By Chip Lieber, October 15, 2010 @ 4:29 pm
My sons and I are restoring a ’46 chevy 2-ton truck with 235. What Carb setup do you recommend and would you recommend the electronic distributor? Thanks,
Chip
By Tom, October 16, 2010 @ 9:41 am
We would recommend our Holley Weber Progressive two barrel on your stock manifold.
If you have 12 volts, our Mini HEI would be a great maintaince free upgrade.
By Tim.B, October 14, 2010 @ 3:17 pm
I have a 57 Dodge 1/2 ton with a 315 Poly V-8. The bellhousing input bearing retainer diameter is 5.125″. Their are multiple bolt patterns on the back of the bellhousing which leads me to believe this could be a factory universal bellhousing made to mount transmissions to the inline 6′s or the V-8′s. Do you have any experience with the early Dodge hemi’s or poly’s? I’m hoping that the kit you make for the inline six would be useful on my motor. Let me know if there are particular things I need to measure to ensure compatability.
By Bruce, October 15, 2010 @ 4:09 pm
Tim,
The 5.125″ bearing retainer diameter indicates that your bellhousing is different than the inline six.
I’m not familiar with the V8 bellhousings so I’m sorry but I can’t help.
Tom
By Brian, November 20, 2010 @ 12:31 am
hi i got a chevy 292 in my mud race car i think its the best engine for that but right know i need more power please need some tricks i am from venezuela i have tri every think but not the perfect combination so i need some help
By Tom, November 20, 2010 @ 10:08 pm
Please list the modifications you now have and I will make my recommendations based on that. Do you have a “lump port” head?
By Brian, October 14, 2010 @ 12:11 pm
I’m installing a 292 in my 52 chevy pickup and can’t sem to find alternator or powersteering mounting brackets. Any advice??
By Bruce, October 15, 2010 @ 4:19 pm
Brian,
These parts are very difficult to find: – especially the P/S brackets.
Sorry I can’t help.
Tom
By Miles D, October 14, 2010 @ 12:06 pm
I would like to upgrade my 230 with dual carbs. What is my best bet here and price?